Revolutionary New Switch for Compressors

[Kazzer]

http://www.moonrakers.com/submarines/LPBswitch1.jpg
http://www.moonrakers.com/submarines/LPBswitch2.jpg

From the Kevin McLeod stable (KMC Designs), made in Canada, we now have a custom built switch to control our Low Pressure Blowers or Air Pumps.

No room for a Snort pump and the module to control it in that 2”
Sub-driver™? The space-saving Mini Pump Controller (MPC) mounts
directly to the back of a mini Snort pump allowing you to save precious
WTC volume and simplify installation. Just plug the MPC into your
receiver and wire the pump power lead to your 6V to 12V battery and
you’re ready to blow! The MPC also features optical isolation and on-board
filtering to keep noisy motor currents from returning through your receiver
and interfering with your signal. In the event of lost radio reception the
MPC will automatically remove power from the motor and fail-safe to an
OFF state.

Here is the LPB without the MPC switch.
http://www.caswellplating.com/models/images/pump3.jpg
The switch will be marketed separately, or in a kit with the LPB pump and 4' of tubing.

More on the LPB
http://www.caswellplating.com/models/pumps.html

The combination of switch and incredibly small compressor make this the perfect system for those 1:144 scale models. If you intend operating your model in a pool, or where recovery is easy, then there is no need for complicated RCABS or gas, as a fail-safe system is overkill.
This neat LPB will pump water just as well as it pumps air, so if you submerge below snorkel tip, then it will simply pump water into the ballast tank instead of air, so the balance won't we altered.

Trim the boat to have the sail just peeking above the waterline with a full ballast tank, then the boat will surface to that position from a deeper dive.

Normal diving will be at snorkel level, but deeper diving will be made by adjusting the planes when in motion.

You may well find that forward plane control is totally unnecessary.

Product will be posted to the Caswell web page shortly.

[toppack]

Mike,
Will this Pump/switch kit be available soon?
Not trying to Rush anyone, just curious?
I'm thinking about trying one in the VII.

[Kazzer]

Yes, it will be available in about 2 weeks!

[Nuke Power]

Im glad you were able to talk Kevin into making these. It would fit pretty nice in my type 7 indeed. Especially nice considering you need to trim ever ounce of fat you can with the 7. Do you have a price you are considering yet.

[SteveJ]

Any update when the switches will be available?

[Kazzer]

Any update when the switches will be available?


In stock now! But not on the web page yet. I have a son for a webmaster and he takes his own sweet time! (A new wife!) :mad: :rolleyes:

PM me and I'll do your order manually.

[Lance]

The MPC also features optical isolation and on-board
filtering to keep noisy motor currents from returning through your receiver
and interfering with your signal.Does this mean that we won't need to put capacitors on the motor?

Lance

[Nuke Power]

nope they are built in

[Lance]

OK, I have soldered the controller to the mini-pump and have another question. Upon testing I found that the controller doesn't work when plugged into the toggle switch (channel 5) of my transmitter, but after pugging into the dial switch (channel 6) it does work.

The instructions mention that the switch will work with a signal between 20% to 80% of throw in one direction only. This makes sense with what I'm experiencing since the toggle switch is not variable.

I have a Futaba Skysport 6 (6YG-FM) and there is an adjustment for changing the travel of the servos but not for the toggle switch that I can see. Here's the question, is there a way to make the LPB work on the toggle switch?

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

OK, I have soldered the controller to the mini-pump and have another question. Upon testing I found that the controller doesn't work when plugged into the toggle switch (channel 5) of my transmitter, but after pugging into the dial switch (channel 6) it does work.

The instructions mention that the switch will work with a signal between 20% to 80% of throw in one direction only. This makes sense with what I'm experiencing since the toggle switch is not variable.

I have a Futaba Skysport 6 (6YG-FM) and there is an adjustment for changing the travel of the servos but not for the toggle switch that I can see. Here's the question, is there a way to make the LPB work on the toggle switch?

Yeah, you open up the transmitter case and put a resister in series with one of the switch poles -- value of the resister to be determined. Do it like this: put a rheostat in there temporarily, and dial it around till the closed toggle-switch actuates the pump, pull the rheostat out of the circuit, measure its resistance, and install a 1/4-watt resister of like value between the toggle-switch and the encoder. If there already is a resistor installed in the switch circuit, then parallel it with the rheostat. The idea is to raise/lower the switch resistance to get the channel-6 (it's either channel-6 or 5, I forget which is the toggle and which is the dial) pulse to the length needed to key the LPB switch circuit.

Or do it like this: put both the LPB switch and ballast sub-system servo on channel-4, you'll do this with a Y connector between the receivers channel-4 plug and the servo and Kevin's electronic switch. Trim throw will actuate the LPB. Full throw of the stick will kick in the blow valve. Neat trick.

We have Kevin McLeod to thank for this little LPB electronic switch and the nifty switch logic that permits use of two devices on one r/c channel.

Them Canadian's!

David,

[KevinMc]

Hi Lance,

I'm sorry to hear that the Skysport's switch isn't adjustable- When I designed this module I wanted to have it useable on a toggle switch or Y'd off the main ballast control channel. Under the latter setup, however, I saw no point in having the pump running while the gas was being vented into the ballast tank so I limited the range over which the pump would turn on. Since the switch on my Tracker III has travel volume adjustment this didn't seem to be a concern. (The one downside in deisgning equipemnt for this hobby is there are so many equipment combinations for people to choose from it's very challenging to find a single solution that works for everything...)

If you're comfortable opening up your radio, what David suggests is a viable solution. I believe most radios tend to use 10k pots for their controls, I would think that a 4.7k ohm resistor off the center lead of the switch could do exactly what you're looking for. (Disclaimer- this is a guess on my part, and while I've torn down my fair share of transmitters I don't profess to be an "expert" in their design.)

[toppack]

Or do it like this: put both the LPB switch and ballast sub-system servo on channel-4, you'll do this with a Y connector between the receivers channel-4 plug and the servo and Kevin's electronic switch. Trim throw will actuate the LPB. Full throw of the stick will kick in the blow valve. Neat trick.

David,

Wow, that is a Neat Trick! I'll drink to THAT!
I'll try that, Also! :) That will give me another channel for *Weapons*! :)

[Lance]

Brilliant! Thanks Dave and Kevin! Since I'm not too confident when it comes to electronics, it's witchcraft to me! :confused: I'll try the Y-connector solution and I just saw one laying around the workbench the other day. Now to find it again!;)

Like you Toppack I was wishing for another channel, this solution will solve that. I'll make mine operate the manta fin and nose lights.:cool:

Lance

[toppack]

Lance,
I Don't think the Y-connector setup will work very well for 2 different functions like DPs and lights? You will not be able to control them separately? Lights will be going off&on when opeating the bow DPs. But I guess that's okay if there are no other options?
The vent/blow functions are a unique situation where it will work, since the 2 are similar and compliment each other, and it's okay to operate them both at the same time, with no problems if set up correctly.
The Y-connector setup is usually used when 2 servos need to be coordinated together like the elivator and rudder of a slow flying RC aircraft, that does not have alirons and has 2-channel reciever, to make coordinated banking turns. And do not need to be controled separately.

[Lance]

Toppack,
If I understand David correctly, I will remove the LPB pump off of the toggle switch (channel 5) and add it with a y-connector to the ballast sub-system servo on channel 4. That will free up the toggle switch for the lights. The forward and rear dive planes operate on channel 6. Let me know if I got it wrong.

Lance

[toppack]

Sorry, I misunderstood your plan. :o
(It read like you wanted to operate the bow-planes and lights on a single channel.)

Yes, that should work great. :)

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

Toppack,
If I understand David correctly, I will remove the LPB pump off of the toggle switch (channel 5) and add it with a y-connector to the ballast sub-system servo on channel 4. That will free up the toggle switch for the lights. The forward and rear dive planes operate on channel 6. Let me know if I got it wrong.

Lance

If you're talking SEAVIEW (just about the only boat I would mechanically link the bow and stern planes together) yes, you got it right. In almost all other boats the stern planes would go to channel-6 and the bow/sail planes to channel-2.

With the exception of SEAVIEW you want to keep the stern and bow planes segregated; stern planes to handle the angle of the boat, the bow/sail planes to manage depth keeping and depth changes. Actually, the SEAVIEW, as I configure her, has three sets of horizontal control surfaces: stern planes, bow planes, and the sail planes (which work independently to manage depth control).

David,