Another look at a WWII Gato Class Submarine

[Anuci]

The following pics begin by showing how I decided to cut the hull to accommodate the designated sub-driver, simply another way to skin the cat so to speak. BTW, By clicking onto the chosen photo once again after produced will further enhance its effect. Best Regards, Al,

[Anuci]

I then scribed and cut out the plastic in the under portion of the hull for placement of flood/vent ports. A brass channel was secured to the keel using stainless screws for greater durability. Bondo filler was further used to contour the channel to the hull. The upper hull was then cut to accommodate the sub-driver/wtc leaving only the necessary cross sections as shown for support of the hull. The deck and tower was then assembled and placed onto the upper hull to determine proper fit and placement leaving a 3/16" gap between the deck and upper hull.

[deepseadiver]

HI there this is great another Gato build. I will be watching your build.:)

[Anuci]

Establishing & outlining the position of the stuffing tubes was next and then drilled out and installed to accommodate the respective prop shaft supports. This is critical to the allignment of the shaft within hull and shaft support itself. Next, installation of the rudder and stern plane assembly occurred although it is suggested that this assembly occur prior to securing the aft portion of the boat to the main hull.

[Anuci]

Priming and painting was pretty straight forward, although if I was to do it again I would have simply used the Krylon fusion paint as with that particular paint no priming is required. Oh well, then again, the primer seems to hide some of the imperfections

[Anuci]

Trimming out the boat was accomplished by attaching the foam sections to the exterior hull to determine the boats water line. Naturally fine tuning is necessary as is various additional venting of the boat where appropiate. I thought the crew figures added a certain touch to the model.

[Anuci]

Sea trials and tribulations go hand and hand with this fun hobby. Hope these photos will assist in some way with your own Gato Submarine build. Good luck and don't forget to post. Al Nuci

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

Al,

Wonderful job.

Please, feel free to tell us what went wrong with the assembly and products you got from us -- only way I can make improvements is to get serious, factual critiques from the 'field'. You and Mr. Manning are the only guys who have shared completed photos of the r/c conversion I've seen so far.

Now, let me have right between the eyes ... what would you want changed or added to the SubDriver, the fittings kit, and the DVD to make these better products?

David,

[Anuci]

David, First things first, I want to take this time to wish everyone a Happy Holiday and all the best in the coming New Year. Thanks Dave, for your gracious comments of the build, but the real credit goes to you and your talents in making it happen, and in giving the beginner in this hobby an opportunity to actively participate. Now lets cut to the chase and permit me to say that overall there is really not much to improve on but moreover my personal choices and/or changes if you will that I would have preferred and would have like seen incorporated into the Gato conversion/subdriver kit. First, an additional equipment tray located and positioned in the forward portion and dry section of the subdriver,this along with two (2) pushrod seals in the top portion of the forward end cap to accommodate two (2) servos which in turn would drive the forward dive planes and a liniar driven dive plane retract system. I believe this would improve control & hopefully eliminate the need to use lengths of flex or other type rod to operate those systems, and may also free up some space in the aft dry section of the wtc and drive-train area. Second, the rudder control system in particular the rudder control turnbuckle used to turn the rudder direction has a tendency to loosen on its shaft. The soft consistency of the white metal used to support its set screw fastener will strip out when tighten down in attempts to acquire a snug fit as this seems to be necessary from time to time. I'm thinking a more direct connection to the rudder shaft would eliminate this as this area is subject to external pressure from water currents and the like and puts stress on the rudder turnbuckle as previously described, ultimately a loss of rudder contol may occur. Hopefully. I'm presenting a clear understanding to these conditions. Thanks for this opportunity. Best Regards, Al

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

Al,

Agreed, the bell crank on the rudder pushrod is a bit 'slippery', but that is solved by putting a flat on the rudder operating shaft to catch the bell crank set-screw which will keep in secure from rotating around the operating shaft.

I've already got a new tool made for a re-worked forward bulkhead. This one will fit as many as three servos above the battery and is machined to accept a mini toggle switch (mission switch). So that improvement is underway.

I'm also working to better consolidate the devices in the after dry space, reducing its volume, which will permit a bit more ballast tank (I have not needed the added buoyancy as my boats have achieved designed waterline without any problem) and/or an increased forward dry space.

And thanks for the nice words -- they mean something coming form a guy who actually made all that stuff work.

I'm still trying to find a set of bevel gears that would improve the performance of the bow plane retract mechanism by translating linear motion from an up-front servo pushrod rather than the cumbersome torque tube running the length of the SD.

Good points all, Al ... have to be as these are problems I've already identified and will address at a later date. Just as soon as I get out from under this backlog of SD's and fittings kit Caswell has me working on.

Damn Caswell! ... I've never worked harder in my life!

David,

[Kazzer]

Al,

Damn Caswell! ... I've never worked harder in my life!

David,


Sniveling again I see! Get back to cave and stop yer whining!:)

[toppack]

Poor David, Just working his fingers into nubs, when the rest of us are 'Havin Fun' :D LOL :D

David, Maybe Mike will let you have a few hours off for Christmas, ya reckon. :)

[Kazzer]

Huh! No way! Don't feel sorry for him! He shouldn't have joined if he can't take a joke!

Crack that whip! Kick that butt!
:mad:

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

(welcome to my world)

David,

[deepseadiver]

oh gosh " were would we be with out David,:(

[toppack]

Yes, David
We really do Appreciate everything you have contributed to the RC hobby. :)

[deepseadiver]

This looks great I'm very impressed with many ways you approached the build. I really like the fact you did not cut the submarine separation of both half's no were near the water line .You cut way more above it which is easier to hide the cut with the upper deck being attached. I like that much more then my sub, were i cut it in half at the water line and caused nothing but grief for me trying to get the two half's to look good.bNext time i will go your rout for sure you cut high enough that you can still get the WTC inside that's all that matters. The looks is more important to me then a Little issue getting the WTC in and out of the sub i will manage that.

I really like your extra crew members like the ones at your guns were did you get the other crew members, there great!
Excellent build.

Jim Amos

[deepseadiver]

Hi Al,
Swing on over to my build and tell me what do you think of my Cobia.

Jim

[Anuci]

Thanks Jim, Your build looks great. I try to keep with Dave's suggestion to KISS " Keep it simple stupid" That adage was made for me. Try this site for crew figures http://www.modelsbymickster.com/cgi-bin/hobbyshop/hobbyshop.pl?inv=Uboote or http://modelsbymickster.com/orders/ Regards, Al

[deepseadiver]

KISS "keep it simple stupid" I like that thinking the more simple the less chances of things going wrong. very good suggestion.
Jim

[Boomer]

Did you have much trouble with the WTC fit? I didn't see you make any comments. Anything you would do differently on the hull cut?

BTW, very nice work.

[Anuci]

Hello Rick, Your right I probably could have provided further comments regarding the various build pics. To answer your question, I've found the wtc to fit quite nicely. In my humble opinion I don't really see the need to open the hull further than what has been shown. I would however, secured the stern portion as I did the bow by simply using stainless screws within the lip of the main hull and the stern cone instead of cementing the stern to the main hull. This would have permitted easy access to the rudder and stern plane assembly should repairs be necessary. I'm also satisfied with the manner I've secured the deck & tower to the hull using a couple countersink stainless screws painted over. I had built the boat as a working boat, and while I've tried to be as accurate to detail as possible It was never intended to be anything more than a working R/C model to have some fun with down at the pond. :) Regards, Al,

[Anuci]

In these photos of the bow you have to look closely to see that there are two screws that attach the bow to the forward section of the hull.:) As mentioned this procedure could have been duplicated when attaching the stern cone, providing for easy disconnect of that portion of the hull. Regards, Al,

[Boomer]

Hi Al,

Thanks for the additional information and photos.

[pjdog]

I am new to rc submarines. Seeing your Gato, deepseediver and Shamrock's Gato sure helps a newbie feel the confidence level go up that I'll be able to build a Gato and type VII. It's a big expense getting started and with zero knowledge a little scary. I assured the wife this would be fun and worth the money. You did a great job. The boat looks real good. I also like the way you opened the hull under the deck. Having to replace the 3/32 plastic after the hull cut was a concern. Having it under the deck looks good.

Thanks again for the pictures. Pictures worth a 1000 words.

Jack

[deepseadiver]

Hi Jack ,
any thing i can help please feel free to ask happy to help a friendly submariner.


Jim A

[Anuci]

Thanks Jack, In regards to this build you'll find that the cost of the kit is minimal in comparison to some other resin fiberglass kits. You may want to first build the kit to specifications and when satisfied with functions and appearance then move to purchase the more costly items necessary to make the boat radio controlled, and all that it can be. Just a consideration to offset the overall cost factor and keep the bride at bay for the time being. Al,

[pjdog]

Al:

I got tired of waiting on the type VII fittings kit and decided to start my Gato. Studing your really nice Gato, I was wondering want happens to the part of the hull you remove. Do you throw it away? Also, did you have to provide any under deck support? I'd like to see a picture of the bottom of your deck.

The type VII was to be my first boat but the Gato is now. Thanks.

Jack

[toppack]

Here's some pics of my Gato before it was completed, with deck assembly setting up above hull.
These may give some ideas of how I did the separation lines, etc.
Sorry about poor picture quality.

[pjdog]

In David Merrimans gato build he shows adding to white plastic to the bottom three decking pieces at the joint for add support. What did you do that. Or did you have another idea to help support the decking sense we are removing so much hull. What's why I wanted to see the bottom view of Al's the deck. Somebodys deck. I'm pretty much trying to follow Al's
build. This is my first sub and the going is slow. There are lots of great Gato's on the form and I'm watch them all looking for solutions to my many questions.

Thank's Jack

[Anuci]

I simply discarded the excess plastic. Yes, the deck sections were reinforced with strips of styrene plastic. Not sure if you are able to see them in these pics. They are white in color. Once you click onto the photo, continue to click onto the pic to enhance further. Al,

[pjdog]

Thanks. That's what I was thinking I should do but being a greenhorn I thought I should ask. If the info out there why not. Thanks again. Now I got some work I can do today.

Jack:D

[pjdog]

AL:

When you drilled the bottom of the hull for flood vents, what did you use for a pattern. Just a best guess or is that something scale to the Gato?

Thanks Jack

[Anuci]

Much of everything that you will need can be conveniently purchased thru Caswell incl the vent pattern that may be used to scribe out the designated vents. Check out the gato accessories, you may want to get the set of builders DVD's as well. Very informative step by step instruction guide. Al,

[toppack]

It is important to get a Lot of fairly large holes in bottom of hull. The important thing is to get them in symetrical, parallel rows with a consistant hole size and shape.
If you try to make the holes an oval shape, like I think most of the originals were, it will take forever to get them looking good, so I recommend drilling Round holes. They're difficult enough. :rolleyes:
And very few people will know the difference. ;)

[pjdog]

Thanks, Al and Rick for the info. I was concerned that I would drill flood vent holes and then later place ballast weight over the holes.

Jack:)

[toppack]

Yeah, the ballast-weights should only be located directly over keel (in center of hull), then the holes are drilled each side of weights. A few smaller holes directly in center for drain holes is okay, if there are pockets between and at ends of lead-bars, but not really needed for proper operation. Those would be drilled after installing the weights, tho.

Remember you can Not use a High-speed drill motor, it will melt the plastic and make a big Mess, with Oversized holes. Start with smaller drill bits and work up with hand drills and files. Plastic don't like power-tools.

[pjdog]

I found out early in the sub build that my model 285 dremel was totally a waste. It just made hot plastic. I got a lipo battery powered dremel model 800 that's great. Runs super slow, no melted plastic. It's really sweet.

jack

[toppack]

Model 800 huh! I may have to locate one those. :)

Only problem is making the large holes, as needed in bottom of hull, I don't think there's drill-bits that large for a dremel. (1/8" is the Max I think) Maybe grinder-stone type bits would work tho.
I ended up using a hand-drill to drill the final size, working up from small power-drill bits. Went fairly fast and easy that way and definitely more accurate by starting small.
There are a Lot of holes tho, just take your time and 'Someday it will all be Over'. :D

[shamrock]

hi pj pretty much did mine the same way started with small hole with dremel. switched over to cordless drill with 1/4 inch bit .than used grinder type bit to enlarge holes had to add more holes after first test run . could not get rid of water fast enough out of hull.will take pics of hole pattern and place in album

[pjdog]

Shamrock:

I've been using a model 800 dremel with a very slow speed setting. It doesn't melt plastic. I've also been using my Ryobi 1/4'' 14.4v drill for bigger jobs. It's also battery driven. Runs super slow and does not melt pastic. I'm pretty much stopped on the Gato until the budget catches up so I can get the Gato S/D with the disc for the build. This Caswell stuff is pure quality isn't it. I was really impressed with the type VII S/D. How do they get all that stuffed into the little cylinder? I'm looking forward to this thursday for another Caswell order that should include the balance of my type VII stuff. I just went ahead and made my own fittings kit for the type VII. Not the quality of a Caswell kit but it will do for the first sub. I'll use Caswell fittings on the next type VII/41.

Jack

[shamrock]

hi pj yes the caswell stuff is great it was a gift from the sub gods .found site by accident have been loyal fan ever since.love the way they stand behind every thing they sell true american way .been trying to add pics to album with no luck.will try to attach them here

[shamrock]

looks like no luck on pics

[Kazzer]

looks like no luck on pics

Anyone else having problems with pics? This should be straightforward. I did have some permissions set wrong, but I think I've fixed that.

[pjdog]

Kirt:

What does the processor (Forum picture processor) say after you attempt to load a picture? I've not been having any problems.

Jack

[shamrock]

lets try one more time

[shamrock]

all it tells me is upload failed -ok think i have it. my pics are to large.need to resize

[shamrock]

ok last try resized pics .just wanted you to see who you were talking to.when you get your V11 up and running since we both live in south lousiana we need to get together for a patrol one weekend

[pjdog]

Hey Kirt:

That works for me. Have boat will travel. I think I'm getting close on the type VII. Caswell is sending my Gato stuff. Should be here 6/8 and 6/10. I will be short the assembled Gato S/D. but that's OK I've got lots to do. There's the unknown which always has it's way with me. This is a real kick in the butt. Lots of fun. Also working on a travel box for the type VII. Working on the rubbers today. I've got to go to Gulfport MS. for some material. Rudders should be done today. Picture of VII attached. Going to do a little repainting.

Jack

[pjdog]

Sorry Kirt. Forgot to mention the Gato looks great. I don't know anything about weathering. I've have to research that. Again, nice boat.

The owner of the gulfport hobbyshop is real interested in my type VII. He wants pictures so he can post them in his shop. I think there might be other boaters there that want to get into subs. That would be good for Caswell.

jack

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

Here's a few pointers on weathering.

[shamrock]

been working on front dive plane linkage .cant seem to get them just right.they will retract all the way up but come down fully.have adjusted linkage arms and push rods.does any one have pics or tips .i have a gato sub from caswell . thanks shamrock

[pjdog]

Daivd:

The weathering on your sub is great. Is there any info on the forum that details how it was done. I don't like to much rust or overdone weathering. Just enough to look not new.

Jack

[shamrock]

good morning pj,i have found two ways to make rust . the first is to take some steel wool,chop it up add a little salt water the rusty water will stick to the sub.the second way is water based flat paint,orange and brown.you live in south louisiana so you know what rust looks like. just keep adding orange and brown to get the desired rust color you want. just remember you can always add more but you can't take it away.if you would like large pics let me know your email address and i will send you close up shots of gato.good luck and don't forget i am here for any questions you may have.

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

Some more shots of weathering -- the emphasis on 'rust'

[shamrock]

just a few pics of my gato sd /snort/linkage

[shamrock]

5 more pics of gato sub

[Anuci]

Very nice build Shamrock, Al,

[pjdog]

Both Kirt and AL, you both have great boats. Very impressive,

Jack

[chrisrich]

Great info on the weathering process. I have been searching everywhere for some examples and proven techniques. Great photos by the way.

I was creating a rusted out sub and used a bit of modeling putty to create a raised texture to the rust. Worked pretty good, but like they say...practice makes perfect. I will put up some pics as soon as I can.

I was wondering what people use to display their labors of love? I picked up a display case online that is just great. Now I can really showcase my works in the den and not have to worry about the kids destroying them!