View Full Version : Transport Box
redboat219
05-31-2009, 03:32 AM
Anyone got any good design for a transport box?
He Who Shall Not Be Named
05-31-2009, 06:43 AM
Anyone got any good design for a transport box?
Oh, for Christ's sake! ... It's a BOX!!!
You can make a box, right? If not, you're in the wrong game.
Chop up some 1/4" thick exterior grade plywood into suitable sizes, cut up some 1"X1" square spar (molding its sometimes called) for interior edge lining. Add glue and finishing nails and you're done. The cheery on top is a handle.
Duh!
redboat219
05-31-2009, 10:57 AM
There's got to be a easier lid locking technique than using screws. Also, What are the side holes for?
pjdog
05-31-2009, 11:42 AM
I've been wondering also about transportation of the subs. Been struggling with the sub build so hard I haven't got that far yet. A picture is worth a 1000 words. I would assume that the holes are for the sub to dry out. They will be wet on the way home.
jack
Kazzer
05-31-2009, 11:44 AM
There's got to be a easier lid locking technique than using screws. Also, What are the side holes for?
Hmm! Yes, I hate those darned screws, a long slow job if you don't have an electric driver handy. However, it makes it more secure and difficult for unwanted guests to tinker with. I thought about Velcro straps but at the end of the day, I couldn't be bothered.
My boxes always come 'ready made' so I am fortunate. (Its a case of who you know, when it comes to box manufacture!)
Side holes are for keeping the boat aired out.
I wish my box troll would consider reversing the box, so the lid was on the bottom, so to speak. The foam inserts would be glued to this and then it would double as a display stand, and make it easier to access the boat. The 'Box' would become a cover and a lid. Maybe those turn-buckle thingies that hold together particle board furniture could secure the lid/cover to the stand? Don't ask me to make one, my saw's broken!
pjdog
05-31-2009, 07:48 PM
I wish your box troll would consider making me a sub box. For monetary gain of course.
He Who Shall Not Be Named
05-31-2009, 08:22 PM
I wish your box troll would consider making me a sub box. For monetary gain of course.
I could build you a box you should be able to bang together youself, or I can work on these torpedoes and launchers.
Hmmm.... what to do, what to do ....
David,
Kazzer
05-31-2009, 09:00 PM
I could build you a box you should be able to bang together youself, or I can work on these torpedoes and launchers.
Hmmm.... what to do, what to do ....
David,
If I hear your saw cutting wood, well, it's ragged toenail treatment for you pal!
redboat219
06-01-2009, 11:20 AM
I hate those darned screws, a long slow job if you don't have an electric driver handy. However, it makes it more secure and difficult for unwanted guests to tinker with.
Ever heard of a lock and key?
Side holes are for keeping the boat aired out.
What prevents unwanted guest from sticking in their fingers through those holes?
I wish my box troll would consider reversing the box, so the lid was on the bottom, so to speak. The foam inserts would be glued to this and then it would double as a display stand, and make it easier to access the boat. The 'Box' would become a cover and a lid.
That would be better, specially for guys with big hands like me who would have a hard time getting the sub out of a cramped box.
pjdog
06-01-2009, 12:32 PM
Please, torpedoes and launchers. Even more important, type VII fittings kit (please). I'll do my own box. Not as pretty but functional.
Jack
He Who Shall Not Be Named
06-01-2009, 02:21 PM
Make it simple, make strong, make it work!
MAKE IT YOURSELF!
David,
pjdog
06-01-2009, 07:33 PM
Got it. I'm off to Home Depot to get supply's.
Jack
SteveJ
06-04-2009, 07:04 AM
Well since I dont have the tools or a shop I will need to have one done for my seaview. Wonder if I could get one in "kit" form?
Steve
Subculture
06-04-2009, 08:45 AM
Most wood yards will cut the timber for you to the correct sizes, if you specify the dimensions, and the cost is usually very reasonable. then you just need to glue and nail/screw it together. You don't need many tools to build a box.
Kazzer
06-04-2009, 10:14 AM
If cutting wood is a problem, consider using Triwall or double corrugated cardboard. You can cut that with a utility knife. If you have a large piece of board, you can simply score the board and then bend it to fold up the sides etc. Tape the joints and board edges with some fiberglass drywall tape (the stuff that is sticky) and then either paint it with a good marine paint or better still epoxy paint. Give it a couple of coats.
To make a lid, just cut a piece of board to the outside size of the box, and another to fit inside, then glue them together.
Boxes made like this are very strong and lightweight.
Wrap some Velcro around the outside of the box to secure the lid.
SteveJ
06-04-2009, 10:57 AM
Thanks Mike
I was looking at the cardboard too.
Steve
redboat219
06-04-2009, 10:58 AM
You could also try Coroplast. Since it's colored plastic there's no need to paint or waterproof it afterwards:wink:
Kazzer
06-04-2009, 09:27 PM
You could also try Coroplast. Since it's colored plastic there's no need to paint or waterproof it afterwards:wink:
How would you glue it? Is it a thermoplastic which would therefore melt with a solvent?
redboat219
06-05-2009, 11:20 AM
How would you glue it?
Coroplast is made of Polypropylene which is great for many uses due to the fact that it is resistant to chemicals; unfortunately the same properties make it difficult to bond using chemical bonding agents.
How about using either good old zip ties, duct tape or pop rivets:wink:
sunworksco
06-07-2009, 02:43 PM
You can locate a professional foam supplier with a cnc machine for cutting foam.Lots of these are unemployed in Detroit now.We have one in Sacramento,Ca.
Then locate someone who uses a www.nextengine.com (http://www.nextengine.com) scanner and scan the vessel in sections then use that file for the cnc machining of the foam material.This would of course be the negative of the vessel and in two pieces with the hinged lid being only 25% of the overall heigth.Then have a custom pickup bed spray-lining company spray the two pieces,inside and out, with the durable rubber coating and you have a very long-lasting,water-proof container.You can finish the inside with a sprayable fuzzy material or simply spray 3-M rubber cement and dust it with your own fuzzy preference.I have made other products using this method with great results.
Kazzer
06-10-2009, 10:55 AM
Seeing as my model (prototype from Merriman) didn't have a box, I decided to make one. I had some oak slats from a concertina door laying around, and they looked perfect for the job.
I wanted to make it so the box became the display stand, and made the base a two tier affair. This allowed the box lid to fit exactly over the base.
A few bits of pink foam carved to fit, then glued into place with a dab of RTV, will hold the boat in position.
I intend to use two screws on the ends, screwing the lid onto the base.
redboat219
06-10-2009, 12:01 PM
That's one heavy looking box. No vent holes?
Kazzer
06-10-2009, 12:04 PM
That's one heavy looking box. No vent holes?
Yep it's 3/8" strips and with the model inside weighs 2lbs 4 oz. I'll drill some vent holes when the glue is dry.
redboat219
06-10-2009, 12:22 PM
Why not fix a couple of threaded rods at each end the base. You can then slip the cover over them then secure it with using wing nuts.
Kazzer
06-11-2009, 07:13 PM
Here is another shot of the finished box. (No varnish applied yet) I've placed a one cent coin and a Quarter alongside to give you a perspective of how small this boat is.
I want to briefly discuss the problems I see with making boxes for submarines. My main concern is 'kinetic energy' (the energy of motion) contained within the actual model when the model and box are set in motion.
Lets do some homework first. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Kinetic_energy
When we place a submarine in it's box, we now have TWO objects that are put into motion when they are moved. If the outer object (the box) suddenly stops, the inner object (the sub) still has it's kinetic energy and, unless rigidly secured to the box, will carry on until it crashes into the end of the box.
The straps, foam, pillars and screws holding that boat in place have to be strong enough to withstand the entire weight of the boat traveling at speed. The box has to also have sufficient padding to absorb the weight and or spread the load of the model entirely. Strapping a boat in place with a few bits of foam will result in the kinetic energy being built up in the boat, wrenching it free and crashing it headlong into the box end.
You could think that wrapping the Submarine box in padding and placing it inside a cardboard box would solve all the problems, but if that sub were loosely fitting and had weak straps, when the box stopped suddenly (hit the ground etc.) the submarine would move inside the box and be damaged.
To make the model safe, it has to be thoroughly strapped in to ensure it does not slide about; having a sloppy fit inside its box is probably the worst thing you could do to your boat.
Kazzer
07-13-2009, 12:46 PM
Lets revamp the box problem.
I am talking to a box manufacturer who can make a custom box from plywood, to our spec. as long as I order in quantity.
The problem is that we have so many sizes of boat. The company suggested placing a foam insert in an oversized box, that has 'cookie cutter' removable parts, so that a variety of models can use the same outer box.
In the case of the smaller models, perhaps two boats could fit into one box ie: a trumpeter Kilo and Seawolf could fit inside on larger box, or maybe a Revell Gato could replace those two?
So, what sized boxes do you think would be viable?
pjdog
07-13-2009, 01:21 PM
Definitely Gato size. I would like a type VII size also. That would fill my needs. I would buy both.
Jack
SteveJ
07-13-2009, 03:13 PM
Gato size in length but wide enough for the Seaview.
Steve
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