Mounting TV camera in Sub ?

[toppack]

I plan to mount a mini color TV camera (with sound) in conning-tower in one, maybe both, of the subs I'm building. I've used these cameras in 2 surface RC ships already and they work great. I mount the remote TV receiver on a TV, with power from a car battery, sitting on the shore.
I figured out a way to encapsulate the camera but have not found a way to seal the connector between battery in hull and camera in sail, and still have it disconnectable and removable? I really don't want to put in another battery sealed in the sail.
Any suggestions and help would be appreciated?

[toppack]

I've desided to try to encapsulate a camera power connector by using Deans type connectors, sealing both male and female connectors in a single ball of RTV, then cut them apart so there will be a tight fit of RTV and then use silicone-grease to seal the gap.
What do Ya think?
Man, surface RC ships are so much easier, but like I said 'I like a Challenge'. :D

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

I plan to mount a mini color TV camera (with sound) in conning-tower in one, maybe both, of the subs I'm building. I've used these cameras in 2 surface RC ships already and they work great. I mount the remote TV receiver on a TV, with power from a car battery, sitting on the shore.
I figured out a way to encapsulate the camera but have not found a way to seal the connector between battery in hull and camera in sail, and still have it disconnectable and removable? I really don't want to put in another battery sealed in the sail.
Any suggestions and help would be appreciated?

Simply slather Permatex RTV gasket-making goo over the connectors and let it dry. It's easy to break when you have to disconnect things.

Consider installing a voltage regulator between the primary battery and the camera system, use one that outputs 5-volts and you're good to go.

Sounds like your shore-side end of the system is like mine, though I output the receiver into a DVD recording machine, and bounce that signal into a monitor/set of virtual goggles so I can watch and record the action at the same time.

Spring for the video camera-transmitter WTC -- it's in the Caswell Inc. catalog, along with the Permatex RTV.

(I'm such a Whore!).

David,

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

I've desided to try to encapsulate a camera power connector by using Deans type connectors, sealing both male and female connectors in a single ball of RTV, then cut them apart so there will be a tight fit of RTV and then use silicone-grease to seal the gap.
What do Ya think?
Man, surface RC ships are so much easier, but like I said 'I like a Challenge'. :D


Yup!

David,

[toppack]

Consider installing a voltage regulator between the primary battery and the camera system, use one that outputs 5-volts and you're good to go.

Sounds like your shore-side end of the system is like mine, though I output the receiver into a DVD recording machine, and bounce that signal into a monitor/set of virtual goggles so I can watch and record the action at the same time.

Spring for the video camera-transmitter WTC -- it's in the Caswell Inc. catalog, along with the Permatex RTV.

(I'm such a Whore!).

David,
I've found that the cameras I've been using operate best at around 9.V. I use LM-317 V-reg. ICs. which are resistor adjustable for voltage level needed. But I may just use a 8.4 volt battery pack (7 cells), if the motor and speed-control like that voltage level?.

I'll have to try the Vertual-goggles. That sounds like fun. :D

Sorry, I already have 2 more color cameras (with sound) that I got off eBay. One is a new version with brighter contrast and higher resolution, big improvement over the older version, same price and about the same size. I'm hopeing it will work well when running at periscope depth.

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

I've found that the cameras I've been using operate best at around 9.V. I use LM-317 V-reg. ICs. which are resistor adjustable for voltage level needed. But I may just use a 8.4 volt battery pack (7 cells), if the motor and speed-control like that voltage level?.

I'll have to try the Vertual-goggles. That sounds like fun. :D

Sorry, I already have 2 more color cameras (with sound) that I got off eBay. One is a new version with brighter contrast and higher resolution, big improvement over the older version, same price and about the same size. I'm hopeing it will work well when running at periscope depth.

1 lousy Volt don't matter. Give me a source on that variable VR, sounds neat!

Don't be too sure about that camera-transmitter using 9 Volts: within the plug connector is likely encapsulated a tiny VR that outputs 5 volts. Not knowing the system you're using I can't be sure, but most of these little camera-transmitter systems use pretty much the same circuitry, regardless of packaging (Swann and such).

If you take out the factory plug from between the 9 Volt battery and camera-transmitter, and hard-wire the battery to the camera-transmitter then it's an issue. What I'm saying is: if you're going with the original connector, then you're good to go, if you take it out of the picture, you may have to wire a 5 Volt VR between the two items.

Give me a source for the 'improved' camera. If it works out I'll run it by Mr. Caswell.

David,

[toppack]

I ordered the LM-317s from Newark Electronics:
http://www.newark.com/jsp/search/browse.jsp?N=500003+1001976&Ntk=gensearch_001&Ntt=lm317&Ntx=

Instructions with these cameras calls for 9.volts I think.
Yes, I found out the hard way that the power connector on the cameras have circuitry in them. I did manage to modify one to a Deans type connector tho.

I got my cameras from eBay. I'll try to find a source. They probably all come from HongKong.

[toppack]

Well, new camera came directly from HongKong, but there's free shipping. :D
The new version is same width and height but about 1/4" longer from lense to back.
(The included camera holder or stand is removable.)
Here's a link to them on eBay website:
http://cgi.ebay.com/New-CCTV-Security-Wireless-Mini-Hidden-Color-Spy-Camera_W0QQitemZ160290859192QQihZ006QQcategoryZ486 32QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

Thanks. I'll tell Mr. Caswell about this.

Do you know how many lines of resolution this camera has? The old ones are 380 some lines; not bad, not terribly good, but adequate.

Yeah, if you dig into the rubber potting at the camera-transmitter end of the plug you'll find encapsulated a little 9-5 Volt regulator.

David,

[toppack]

Do you know how many lines of resolution this camera has? The old ones are 380 some lines; not bad, not terribly good, but adequate.

Yeah, if you dig into the rubber potting at the camera-transmitter end of the plug you'll find encapsulated a little 9-5 Volt regulator.
David,
I checked the box the camera came in and the instruction sheet but No resolution given. Even tho it was in a very nice box it didn't even have the manufactures name on it. It could be still at 380, but since it looks so much better I just assumed it is higher resolution. It may just be the brightness and contrast that are better. Strange they didn't give the resolution data tho, they did with all the older ones. (not on eBay page either)
The receiver looks identical except power-jack is now labeled 12.V. The older ones were labeled either 9.V or 9.-12.V. The receiver has not changed internally tho. I also tested the new camera on an old receiver and it looked the same. I've found that they all work well at 12.volts, tho.

Thanks, I was not sure what the circuit in connector did. That's good to know. I do know there were only 2 wires going into connector but 3 wires from connector to camera, so I was wondering if it may be an amplifer for video-transmitter or something.

[toppack]

I've been trying to figure out where I'm going to mount the video camera in the Gato model. I want it pointing forward and there's not much space inside the upper part of sail and view would be blocked by forward-gun and railing, so I think the best place is under the forward-gun-deck (cigarette deck). It's very low and close to deck there but I can point the camera up some for better view. The hole will slightly be hidden by deck extension and it will be easier to seal camera in and out there also. I just hope the camera antenna will be high enough there.
I probably won't be able to mount the fog-horn, tho. :D

[toppack]

I'm thinking about running the video camera's antenna up thru the sail and periscope to make it work better when running partially submurged, but it will need to be lengthened. So doubleing the length would probably be best?
Has anyone ever experimented with doubleing the antenna length of a 1. or 2. gHs transmitter's antenna? (I'm guessing the antennas, that come with them, are full-wavelength, but may be half-wavelength, which would be great)

[toppack]

I doubled the length of a camera/transmitter's Antenna to test it. Worked great up close, so I did a simulated Range-test by completely removing the antenna from receiver box and moved it about 30.ft away (length of workshop) and found that it still looked good. :D (that's with 9.V battery for camera power)
So I think it's 'Good to Go' in the Sub that way :D and get the antenna further out of the water.

[toppack]

I found some very small wire (wire-wrap type) that will go up thru holes drilled in tower, then inside the tubing supplied in kit for periscope, to lengthen antenna. It's not invisible, at tower support frame, but it looks like it should be there, so it looks fine. :)

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

I found some very small wire (wire-wrap type) that will go up thru holes drilled in tower, then inside the tubing supplied in kit for periscope, to lengthen antenna. It's not invisible, at tower support frame, but it looks like it should be there, so it looks fine. :)

Range check that thing to 300-feet. That will tell the tale.

David,

[toppack]

300 Feet! With my eyes I can't even tell which way a model ship is going, at that distance ! :D LOL :D
Yes, I'll definitely do real range-tests, both in and out of water, when I get it assembled.
So far, it's looking like the extended antenna will 'Help' when submurged to periscope depth.

[toppack]

I forgot to mention that the 4" Gun also needs to be mounted aft of the sail, since it will block the view of camera mounted in forward base of sail, under cigarette deck.
I've seen pictures of Gato class subs with the Gun mounted there and it was an option in Revell instructions, so I Hope it will be okay with the purest. :D

[toppack]

I was looking more closely at the newer version of the camera/transmitter assembly and it appears to be completely sealed and water-tight. The only area I could not be sure about was the hole for internal microphone. So I'll seal that and where the power and antenna wires go thru, to make sure. Then Dunk it in some water, to find out what happens. ;)
If it doesn't leak, that will certainly save a lot of work designing and making an openable sealed box for it to go into and a sealed clear window for it to see out. :)
But if it does leak I may be buying another camera and starting over again. :mad:

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

I was looking more closely at the newer version of the camera/transmitter assembly and it appears to be completely sealed and water-tight. The only area I could not be sure about was the hole for internal microphone. So I'll seal that and where the power and antenna wires go thru, to make sure. Then Dunk it in some water, to find out what happens. ;)
If it doesn't leak, that will certainly save a lot of work designing and making an openable sealed box for it to go into and a sealed clear window for it to see out. :)
But if it does leak I may be buying another camera and starting over again. :mad:


Ah ... err .... ah ... hmmmm... yeah, OK.

David,

[toppack]

I may be able to run the power-wires for camera thur snort-tubing holes in motor bulkhead (that I'm not using) instead of pluging them. That way I can utilize existing holes and not have to drill hole for camera wire. :)

David,
Are the brass tubes just glued into motor bulkhead?
How much work would it be to remove the tubes, without damage to bulkhead?

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

I may be able to run the power-wires for camera thur snort-tubing holes in motor bulkhead (that I'm not using) instead of pluging them. That way I can utilize existing holes and not have to drill hole for camera wire. :)

David,
Are the brass tubes just glued into motor bulkhead?
How much work would it be to remove the tubes, without damage to bulkhead?

Grab with pliers, twist, pull. 'snap!' it's outa there with a clean 3/32" hole to do with as you want.

David,

[toppack]

It's the 'Snap' part that I worry about. :D
Thanks,

[toppack]

Okay, They came out with no problem. I didn't even crush the tubing. :)

[toppack]

I got the external video-camera wired to the E-switch inside SD, and tested. Works great. :)
Next step is to test it with camera/transmitter under water. :confused:
I think I'll pile on another layer of RTV, onto it's connector, first.
I may have to have a few beers before I can get up the Nerve to Dunk it with power applied. :D

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

I got the external video-camera wired to the E-switch inside SD, and tested. Works great. :)
Next step is to test it with camera/transmitter under water. :confused:
I think I'll pile on another layer of RTV, onto it's connector, first.
I may have to have a few beers before I can get up the Nerve to Dunk it with power applied. :D

Why do you go to the trouble to turn the thing on and off -- it draws so little power anyway, just hardwire it to the BEC and be done with it.

And just as soon as you flood out the camera-transmitter, invest in a proper WTC for the thing -- you'll find the CAMERA WTC in the Caswell catalog. And it will flood eventually as the water works it's way past the RTV'ed wires and into the camera-transmitter case.

Penny wise, pound fooling you are, sir.

David,

[toppack]

I like to be able to turn off any optional function, when possible. In the event there is a failure, while at the lake, I can disable it easily and continue on, with 'Havin' Fun'. :)
(without having to go inside and pull the connector)
I already have the E-switch installed and working anyway. :)

I think the Caswell WTC (altho great) would be much too large to fit, hidden inside the Gato sail, the way I wish to mount it.
I'm pretty sure the newer version of the camera is water-tight, so the only possible leak area is the power wires connector and that would be a potential problem with any WTC also.
(since I definitely want to be able to disconnect it)
I only put RTV on Camera for a little 'Piece of Mind'. :D

[toppack]

Also, when I'm running the boat without the TV monitor with me, I want to be able to disable the camera load, since any currect drain, altho low, will shorten run time some, on the very small battery-pack (due to limited space in SD).

I'm accustomed to using large 5.pound, 12.V, 8.AmpHour Batteries in my RC Ship models. :D LOL :D
(They will 'Last All Day', and then some) :)

[toppack]

I tested the camera under about 2" of water and it worked great. I left it in a water bowl for about 15. minutes with no problems.
But after taking it out of water I had a 'Major Meltdown'.
The SD was just sitting there transmiting, I was adjusting the video receiver and all a sudden the ES-1 E-switch lite up like a flash-bulb and puffed out a cloud of smoke. :eek:
Worst thing is that it took out the BEC in the Speed-control also. Don't know what caused it, the camera still works and it's power-connector seemed dry, when I took it apart. :confused: Don't think there were any wiring shorts since it was still working when it ignited.
So, now I'll need to install a new ESC and E-switch. :mad:
Maybe that ES-1 just had a weak component in it. All part of the process, I guess. :(
Are we having Fun Yet!

[Kazzer]

What was the switch switching on and off?

[toppack]

The camera, with 9.6 volt battery pack for power.
It was still transmitting when E-switch blew.
Maybe the ES-1 just can't handle 9 or 10.volts, for long ?
See camera Pic:

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

The camera, with 9.6 volt battery pack for power.
It was still transmitting when E-switch blew.
Maybe the ES-1 just can't handle 9 or 10.volts, for long ?
See camera Pic:

The ES1 is good to pass at least 12-volts.

I recommend you isolate the red wire from the ES1 unit (one of the three wires that makes up to the receiver port). The ES1 has a BEC of its own and that should be isolated (disconnecting the red wire) if you're using an ESC with its own BEC, or you're using a dedicated BEC.

David,

[toppack]

Yes, I had done that. It would not work properly until I did. (Adding voltages)
The thing is, it worked properly for about 20. minutes before it failed, so it must have been wired correctly.
Is there a schematic of the ES-1 available somewhere?
I'm still confused as what the circuit is inside them. :confused:
If not, I think I'll just replace the cooked one with a Hansen High-power E-switch, which has all that Info with it. Altho thicker than the ES-1, I think it will fit in the SDs available space.
(The one I've used before does require assembly tho)
http://www.hansenhobbies.com/products/rcelkits/erskit/
He also has another assembled version, but I've not tried it.

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

Yes, I had done that. It would not work properly until I did. (Adding voltages)
The thing is, it worked properly for about 20. minutes before it failed, so it must have been wired correctly.
Is there a schematic of the ES-1 available somewhere?
I'm still confused as what the circuit is inside them. :confused:
If not, I think I'll just replace the cooked one with a Hansen High-power E-switch, which has all that Info with it. Altho thicker than the ES-1, I think it will fit in the SDs available space.
(The one I've used before does require assembly tho)
http://www.hansenhobbies.com/products/rcelkits/erskit/
He also has another assembled version, but I've not tried it.

What the ES1 manufacturer has done is make it a micro-controller programmed, one-device-does-many-things gadget. That same board, as is, when the micro-controller is so coded, will perform the job as an ESC, electronic switch, radio alarm clock, coffee maker, etc. All programmed at the factory for the function the circuit is sold for.

I can hear you screaming from here: "all I want is for the thing to do one thing right!".

I'm with you there. We're working with our Chinese guy now on the problem.

David,

[toppack]

:D LOL :D
Yep, I don't need a 'radio alarm clock or coffee maker' right Now! :D LOL :D

David and Mike,
You may want to check out Chris Hansen's products, for resale.
He seems to have quality items. He's in Illinois.
http://www.hansenhobbies.com/

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

:D LOL :D
Yep, I don't need a 'radio alarm clock or coffee maker' right Now! :D LOL :D

David and Mike,
You may want to check out Chris Hansen's products, for resale.
He seems to have quality items. He's in Illinois.
http://www.hansenhobbies.com/


Thanks for the tip.

Hey, Mike: I went to the Hansen site and looked at the bigger (which is very small) of the two electronic switches, http://www.hansenhobbies.com/products/onboardacc/mers/ and it looks just like what we need to put in the Caswell catalog.

We're not interested in the smaller ES, Mike, as that only feeds off the receiver bus.

Good work, Toppack.

David,

[toppack]

I did another 'camera-submerged-in-water' test, but this time I used a current-regulated power-supply for power.
Left it under water another 15. min, with no problems.
I still don't know what caused the ES-1 to blow but I have determined that the camera and it's connector are water-tight. At least in 2" of water it is.
Has not been tested below 500. feet yet. :D

Which reminds me, How many 'Hundreds of Feet' has the Sub-Driver been tested to ??? :D

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

I did another 'camera-submerged-in-water' test, but this time I used a current-regulated power-supply for power.
Left it under water another 15. min, with no problems.
I still don't know what caused the ES-1 to blow but I have determined that the camera and it's connector are water-tight. At least in 2" of water it is.
Has not been tested below 500. feet yet. :D

Which reminds me, How many 'Hundreds of Feet' has the Sub-Driver been tested to ??? :D

Fire up that camera-transmitter 30 days from now and tell me how it works then.

I've pulled a hard vacuum in these units -- that's a differential pressure pretty much equivalent to 30 feet of water. Without failure.

David,

[toppack]

Fire up that camera-transmitter 30 days from now and tell me how it works then.
Will Do.

I was just joking about the test, but that is interesting.
I assume that was Internal Vacuum, on SD, to simulate external water pressure, correct?
Doesn't air leak easier than water. If so, the vacuum test would equal something Greater than 30 feet in water wouldn't it? Or does the 30 ft correct for that aleady?

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

Will Do.

I was just joking about the test, but that is interesting.
I assume that was Internal Vacuum, on SD, to simulate external water pressure, correct?
Doesn't air leak easier than water. If so, the vacuum test would equal something Greater than 30 feet in water wouldn't it? Or does the 30 ft correct for that aleady?

.445 PSI per foot of water. A hard vacuum at the surface represents a 15 PSI differential. To create that same differential on the SubDriver with one-atmosphere of pressure within it would require a submergence to about 30 foot.

[toppack]

.445 PSI per foot of water. A hard vacuum at the surface represents a 15 PSI differential. To create that same differential on the SubDriver with one-atmosphere of pressure within it would require a submergence to about 30 foot.

Okay, I think I understand.
Thanks for the Info.

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

Okay, I think I understand.
Thanks for the Info.


Basic stuff. You'll find it in the index of most first-year Physics text books. Don't have one? Go to a book remainder store and get one (you'll find them near any college or university campus)! Questions here should not be so basic. Study -- come to class prepared!

Reminder: I'm not here to be nice or kiss the customer's ass, or to make small-talk to lonely men. I'm here to help you with product selection, set-up, alteration, and repair.

I don't have time for the basic stuff you should already have in your noggin, the stuff you need to know to support this choice you made -- to assemble and operate r/c submarines.

R/C submarines are not an entry-level aspect of the radio controlled vehicle hobby. You had better get into this with basic science understood, practical hands-on experience with r/c vehicles, and a wad of cash! If you don't, you're doomed to miserable failure.

David,

[toppack]

Okay, No more complicated Questions for David, I understand!
David,
If I post other questions that you consider silly or don't have time to answer, just Ignor them. Maybe some other 'Lonely person' will want to respond. :D
Oh, I forgot, there's not too many people on this Forum? :confused:

[toppack]

Maybe you should Post a Sign in Forum-Header stating,
'No Newbie Questions Allowed'.

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

Maybe you should Post a sign in Forum header stating,
'No Newbie Questions Allowed'. :D

I'll take that (twice) under advisement, Mr. Ambassador.

David,

[Kazzer]

Maybe you should Post a Sign in Forum-Header stating,
'No Newbie Questions Allowed'.

Rick

Just ignore his Grumpieness! He's not happy until he's giving some one some grief! I guess you are it:)

[toppack]

No Problem! :)
I realize 'my place in the world'. :)

[type viic]

The camera, with 9.6 volt battery pack for power.
It was still transmitting when E-switch blew.
Maybe the ES-1 just can't handle 9 or 10.volts, for long ?
See camera Pic:

please draw a circuit like your camera with the ES1. let me take a test and search the cause

[toppack]

I'm starting to think something accidentally shorted, causing the failures, since the ESC failed at the same time, and the ESC and ES-1 Power wires were not supposed to be connected to each other (separate power-supplies). So if they were not connected, how can one of them failing take out the other also! :confused: Very Strange!
It was only the ES-1 that visually burned, tho.
I could not find any visually damaged components in the speed-control.
I would post a schematic but my wife told me last week that our scanner is not working. :( I'll check it and see, may have been operator-error. :D LOL :D

[toppack]

Well, our scanner has a problem. :(
Something Else to troubleshoot :mad:,
or Maybe I'll just Shoot it and let Santa bring another for Christmas. :D

[toppack]

I did another Test of the WT seal of the camera.
This time I got it working at water surface of hot-tub, then disconnecting power I lowered it to bottom (about 2.5 feet deep). Left it under about 5. minutes. When I brought it back up and reconnected power it worked but left half of displayed image was cloudy (whiteish with little color). I left it powered up and after about 10. minutes it went back to normal. That must be telling me that it got water behind lense, which needs to be sealed better ? :confused:

[toppack]

I found that the lense housing is threaded into camera housing and lense can be rotated in and out, with those theads, to adjust Focus of camera.
Well, Not any More, I RTVed the theads, since that must be where the water got in.
I'll test it again tomorrow, I want to let it dry out completely.

[toppack]

I've discovered another Good use for the onboard Camera. :)
When the battery starts depleating the color of the diplayed video Changes. At about 6.volts it looses some of the colors and goes Red.
So the camera will be a good indicator of when battery is getting low and model needs to be brought in for battery change or charge.
My surface ships, with cameras, have such large batteries, that last longer than I do, I never saw this, but Subs with their small batteries, are a different story.

[toppack]

The new E-switch for Camera is still working, I guess it's time to do some more Underwater testing of the camera, to see if I've fixed the leaking lense problem. ;)

[toppack]

I did another camera leak test at 2.5 feet, with no problems, so I mounted it in base of sail with RTV, and ran the extended antenna up thru tower and periscope.
So, we can say it's semi-permanently mounted now.
The next test will be at the lake. :)

[toppack]

I started having another leak problem at the camera power cable connector, after about a dozen disconnects and reconnects. :( Sure runs the battery down Fast, but it did not damage the E-switch.
So I put a small dab of silicone-grease at the mating surface of the RTV seal, and that fixed it. At least for now. :)

[Kazzer]

Rick

You are doing some really neat stuff here. Is there any way you can post some pictures? It would really help understanding what you are trying to achieve.

[toppack]

I'll try to do that some. I keep forgeting to take pics and also my new digital camera got stuck in some strange mode when my wife was using it, but I think I've got that fixed now.

[toppack]

Here's pic showing the underside of Gato Tower, with camera mounted in front, with small hole for lense.
You can also see the RTV-sealed power-connector and the camera-transmitter antenna wire which goes up into periscope. The screw hanging down holds the tower onto deck, the head of which is hidden inside tower. Only needed the one 4-40 screw to hold it on tightly.
The number is hand painted on, since the kit did not have enough decals for both sides.
Click Pic:

[Kazzer]

AHA! No WTC for the camera. This is such a simple thing to make and would solve ALL your problems.

[toppack]

What ???
There's No way to hide a WTC inside that small tower and the problem area is the cable connection, which can't be inside a WTC, to allow removal of deck assembly.
I think of it as a Challenge, Not a Real problem. :)
I build Scale models, Not models with large camera-pods sitting on top of them. :D LOL :D

[toppack]

What ???
As stated previously, There's No way to hide a WTC inside that small tower and the problem area Now is the cable connection, which can't be inside a WTC, to allow removal of deck assembly.
I think of it as a Challenge, Not a Real problem. :)
I build Scale models, Not models with large top-heavy camera-pods sitting on top of them. :D LOL :D

[toppack]

I found a New version of the camera we have been using. Or rather it has a new version of the receiver with it.
I'm not sure how it works tho, since it doesn't seem to have a tuning knob like the others. It has a row of LEDs instead.
I hope that means it has auto tuning, since the too sensitive tuning-knot is the worst part of the older system.
It has the normal cables and power-supplies with it.
I have the new, completely sealed, camera version like that one, in the Gato, and it's great.
I bought one on eBay and should get it in a week or so, so I'll let everyone know how it checks out.
Click Pic:

[Kazzer]

I have one of those and it will handle four cameras, hence the LEDs to show you which camera you are on. This is usually used as a baby monitor, so you put cameras in different places. Overkill for our application and difficult to get more cameras set on the different stations.

[toppack]

Now You Tell Me!
Dang, No Auto Tuning!
Oh well, I mainly wanted another camera for the T-class anyway. I'll save that receiver for some other project.

[Kazzer]

Mount one camera in the bow, one in the stern and one underneath pointing forward. Then you have all round vision with just a flick of the receiver button. Pretty slick I would imagine and with that big T Class it should be no problem.

[toppack]

All Right!
Go Stereo Vision! :D LOL :D

[toppack]

I got the camera and receiver (with 4 camera capibility) and the receiver Does have Auto-Tuning. :)
You just push a botton and it locks into signal from camera. I've only tried it with the 1 camera, so far, but it works great. No fine tuning needed.
That camera, altho it looks the same, will Not work with the tuning-knob type receiver, tho. :(
I'll be trying other cameras on the 4 channel receiver next. If they work, I'll be cnanging over to the 4-channel receiver to be used, with all my models, with those cameras.

And More LEDs are Always Cool! :D LOL :D

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

I got the camera and receiver (with 4 camera capibility) and the receiver Does have Auto-Tuning. :)
You just push a botton and it locks into signal from camera. I've only tried it with the 1 camera, so far, but it works great. No fine tuning needed.
That camera, altho it looks the same, will Not work with the tuning-knob type receiver, tho. :(
I'll be trying other cameras on the 4 channel receiver next. If they work, I'll be cnanging over to the 4-channel receiver to be used, with all my models, with those cameras.

And More LEDs are Always Cool! :D LOL :D

Careful, not all these system are on the same band: some on 2.4gHz, some on 2.2gHz.

David,

[toppack]

I think all I have are 2.4, but I'll check that.
If they are different bands I can just attach both type receivers to my TV.
It will look even More Impressive that way. :D
Thanks,

[toppack]

Yep, they are on different frequency bands. :(
The only way to tell the difference in cameras is in Antenna length. The length on the 2.4gHz unit is about 2.4" long, (strange coincidense but makes it easy to remember) and the others are about an inch longer.
Oh well, something else to Complicate my life. ;)

[Kazzer]

Careful, not all these system are on the same band: some on 2.4gHz, some on 2.2gHz.

David,


I think that was a typo David? Did you mean 1.2gHz not 2.2gHZ??

[toppack]

I think that was a typo David? Did you mean 1.2gHz not 2.2gHZ??

Those I have are 1.2gHz. Most of the cameras I have did not have that info with them but found one old data sheet that said 1.2.
So now I have one at 2.4 and four at 1.2. :( Bummer!
I've been thinking all along that they were all 2.4 gHz, simple because I never saw a data sheet on them.

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

I think that was a typo David? Did you mean 1.2gHz not 2.2gHZ??

I stand corrected. Sorry.

David,

[toppack]

I got the Camera/Xmitter mounted in the T-class tower, below forward gun turret, peeking out a small hole. It's working great. :)
Since I didn't have a receiver channel left, I powered it thru a toggle switch mounted thru SD end-cap, next to on/off switch, in forward WTC. Both switches will be activated by pull/push wires, thru to exterior of hull.
It has a good view out over bow.
I made the antenna exactly 4 times longer than the one it came with and works much better at that length (more range without dropouts).
The antenna wire goes up thru the forward periscope tube. Aft periscope tube is snort-pump inlet, which is installed also.

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

Let's have some pictures of the installation.

David,

[toppack]

I did some quick pics:
You can see bottom of camera, bottom ends of P-tubes, 2 screws that hold tower on and power-connector.
3rd pic shows hole that camera looks thru, directly below gun.
Last pic shows cutouts for camera and connector at bottom of pic, and round holes for periscope tubes at top of pic, in deck/cover. Large holes are water passages.
In the pics the Hunter-Green color looks kinda blue but it's not.

[junglelord]

WOW, that was Fast!
Amazing. Nice work.