Snort System

[toppack]

What is Included in the Snort-System?
Are there instructions somewhere for it's instalation?
I ordered System # LSNT but received a Pump only???
No tubing, wireing, motor capacitor , instructions, etc.
Please advise?

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

What is Included in the Snort-System?
Are there instructions somewhere for it's instalation?
I ordered System # LSNT but received a Pump only???
No tubing, wireing, motor capacitor , instructions, etc.
Please advise?

A detailed discussion of the above and more is covered in the SD instruction booklet -- just about finished with them, should be out in a day or two. Mike will post them to his site.

David,

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Okay, Thanks,
What about the Missing parts of the system?
Should I call Caswell to find what happened to them?
Surely the 'System' I paid for is Not just the pump???

No, you paid for a pump-compressor combination. You got that, right? What was identified under the part number you ordered? This is a question you should level at 'customer service' over at Caswell Inc.

David,

[Kazzer]

You should have a LPB pump and an SubES1 electronic switch - as described on the web page.

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

You should have a LPB pump and an SubES1 electronic switch - as described on the web page.


Mike,

I'm sending you my final version of the 3.5 SubDriver instructions ... damn thing came in at over 36 pages!

Maybe you can post the relavent pages on the LPB here?

David,

[toppack]

You should have a LPB pump and an SubES1 electronic switch - as described on the web page.

I could not find a system components list anywhere. I naturally assumed the system included everything Pictured with the pump, on snort-system webpage. That parts list should be added, if it's not there.
Thanks,

[Kazzer]

And you are absolutely right! There is no list! Darn!

We'll have to fix that. Now, I'm in Florida until Tuesday, so I can't do anything about this until I return to NY.

I have some 1/8" brass tube and I think I have some plastic tuning I can send you.

All you need to to is insert the switch connector into the receiver and then connect the pump to it. 2 holes need to be drilled into the rear end cap and the brass tube inserted there so it sticks out about 1/2" either side. Then the plastic pipe is connected to them.

Email me your name and address to mike@caswellplating.com so I don't forget please. I don't have access to that here in Florida.

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I have some 1/8" brass tube and I think I have some plastic tuning I can send you.

That would be great, Thanks

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A detailed discussion of the above and more is covered in the SD instruction booklet -- just about finished with them, should be out in a day or two. Mike will post them to his site.
David,

I certainly need it, because I still can't firure out the purpose and need for the 2 airline tubes going thru rear end of the SD ??? The Snort pumps air into the center ballast chamber doesn't it?

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I have another question about the Snort pump. I'd planed to use a 9.volt battery but I just realized it is a 12.v pump.
Will the pump, operating at 9.v (probably around 70% efficiency) be enough air volumn to do the job?

[toppack]

I have another question about the Snort pump. I'd planed to use a 9.volt battery but I just realized the pump is a 12.v pump.
Will the pump, operating at 9.v (probably around 70% efficiency) be enough air volumn to do the job?

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

I have another question about the Snort pump. I'd planed to use a 9.volt battery but I just realized the pump is a 12.v pump.
Will the pump, operating at 9.v (probably around 70% efficiency) be enough air volumn to do the job?


Sure, no problem.

David,

[Kazzer]

It's a 6-12 volt pump and it will work fine!

[Kazzer]

I certainly need it, because I still can't firure out the purpose and need for the 2 airline tubes going thru rear end of the SD ??? The Snort pumps air into the center ballast chamber doesn't it?

There are 2 tubes on the low pressure blower/pump. One goes to the ballast tank to put air into it, the other runs from the Snorkel. The 2 brass tubes through the rear motor bulkhead allow these tubes access to and from the pump.

[toppack]

The 2 brass tubes through the rear motor bulkhead allow these tubes access to and from the pump.

I was afraid you were going to say that. :eek:
The aft compartment is Completely Full already, no room for pump there. I plan to put the snort pump in other end of tube with battery. So I need to somehow Move those 2 brass tubes to the other end of SD ??? ;)
It appears the tubes in motor bulkhead are not easily removeable? So I'll probably just plug them and drill holes in battery bulkhead and seal in more tubes for pump access.
I think that would be easier than trying to run tubing from one end to the other (inside) and still be able to connect it up.
I need to drill a hole in it for power-switch anyway, so what's a couple more holes gonna hurt. :D

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

I was afraid you were going to say that. :eek:
The aft compartment is Completely Full already, no room for pump there. I plan to put the snort pump in other end of tube with battery. So I need to somehow Move those 2 brass tubes to the other end of SD ??? ;)
It appears the tubes in motor bulkhead are not easily removeable? So I'll probably just plug them and drill holes in battery bulkhead and seal in more tubes for pump access.
I think that would be easier than trying to run tubing from one end to the other (inside) and still be able to connect it up.
I need to drill a hole in it for power-switch anyway, so what's a couple more holes gonna hurt. :D

Good plan.

David,

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I moved the 2 air-line tubes to forward-bulkhead and installed and sealed the power-switch but when connecting flex-tubing between forward-bulkhead and snort-pump I found that the pump's inlet and outlet ports are larger than brass-tubing provided in bulkhead, (flex-tubing did not fit pump).
So I'm thinking about drilling out the pump-ports slightly and CA gluing some short pieces of brass-tube inside the pump ports to reduce diameter and to lengthen them, since the pump ports are also very short?
David,
Is that the best solution?

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

I moved the 2 air-line tubes to forward-bulkhead and installed and sealed the power-switch but when connecting flex-tubing between forward-bulkhead and snort-pump I found that the pump's inlet and outlet ports are larger than brass-tubing provided in bulkhead, (flex-tubing did not fit pump).
So I'm thinking about drilling out the pump-ports slightly and CA gluing some short pieces of brass-tube inside the pump ports to reduce diameter and to lengthen them, since the pump ports are also very short?
David,
Is that the best solution?

Bad idea!!! You get any shavings into the ports and they get at the check-valves within. Game Over!

Heat a 3/32" diameter brass pin and stick it momentarily into the end of a piece of flexible hosing, repeat till you enlarge the inside diameter of the end of the flexible hose till it will fit over the nipple of the LPB compressor with just enough interference fit to assure it stays there -- experiment first on a discarded piece of flexible tubing.

David,

[toppack]

Okay, I'll give it a try. I was afraid a hose may come loose and pump the battery compartment full of water, doing it that way. :(

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

Okay, I'll give it a try. I was afraid a hose may come loose and pump the battery compartment full of water, doing it that way. :(

Could ...

... you wana live forever?

David,

[toppack]

... you wana live forever?

David,


I Know I won't, but I hope this sub will last Long after I'm gone. :)

I tried heating and stretching the flex-tubing but just couldn't get it correct, either too tight or too loose. So I went with my original plan. Drilled the pump ports with drill-bit in a pin-vise (no power drill), did it slowly and carefully, to make sure nothing got into pump. The plastic is very easy to drill by hand. Brass tubes fit perfectly and I think 'It's Good to Go'. :)

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

I Know I won't, but I hope this sub will last Long after I'm gone. :)

I tried heating and stretching the flex-tubing but just couldn't get it correct, either too tight or too loose. So I went with my original plan. Drilled the pump ports with drill-bit in a pin-vise (no power drill), did it slowly and carefully, to make sure nothing got into pump. The plastic is very easy to drill by hand. Brass tubes fit perfectly and I think 'It's Good to Go'. :)

Good man. Take photos and share with us. There are other (and sometimes better) ways to skin a cat.

David,

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I put a couple pictures of the modified pump in the 'Builder Threads' forum.

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I went ahead and uploaded the modified Pump pictures here also.
(I don't know why they wouldn't upload here before ???)
Click on Thumbnail pics:

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I desided to use brass tubing for most of the air-lines to and from Snort-pump. With 2 short pieces of flex tubing connecting them to SD. Outlet tube RTVed to bottom of SD and Inlet tube is RTVed to top of SD. There will be another short piece of flex tubing at upper end, were it goes into sail, which will make it easier to feed in, when installing deck-assembly/cover.

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

I desided to use brass tubing for most of the air-lines to and from Snort-pump. With 2 short pieces of flex tubing connecting them to SD. Outlet tube RTVed to bottom of SD and Inlet tube is RTVed to top of SD. There will be another short piece of flex tubing at upper end, were it goes into sail, which will make it easier to feed in, when installing deck-assembly/cover.


All that brass tube means a lot of dead-weight up high and above the designed waterline. Bad Ju-Ju!

David,

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All that brass tube means a lot of dead-weight up high and above the designed waterline. Bad Ju-Ju! David,

One brass tube is down at keel, next to ballast-weight, only one is high, but since I've also moved the forward-dive-plane push-rod down at keel and no DP-retract linkage installed, there will be much less total weight that is high. Having Inlet-brass-tube at top, with a vertical bend in it, will make installing cover much easier, since it has to be guided up into sail. :)

I had a Stroke about 6 months ago and don't have complete use of my left hand yet, so I have to figure out ways of doing things with one hand when possible. :(

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

One brass tube is down at keel, next to ballast-weight, only one is high, but since I've also moved the forward-dive-plane push-rod down at keel and no DP-retract linkage installed, there will be much less total weight that is high. Having Inlet-brass-tube at top, with a vertical bend in it, will make installing cover much easier, since it has to be guided up into sail. :)

I had a Stroke about 6 months ago and don't have complete use of my left hand yet, so I have to figure out ways of doing things with one hand when possible. :(


OK, it's a wash -- probably in your favor. Thanks for the details. Sounds like you've been working actively to keep the c.g. low. Good on ya.

As to the stroke: that's a *****! Is your gray matter OK (other than the left-side involvement)? I'm not being a smart-ass (this time). How are your cognitive abilities after the clot? This is a very demanding hobby.

David,

[toppack]

Luckily the only thing effected by Stroke was left arm and hand. Other areas effected recovered within a month.
I sure get tired fo typing on this keyboard with just one finger tho. :D LOL :D

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

Luckily the only thing effected by Stroke was left arm and hand. Other areas effected recovered within a month.
I sure get tired fo typing on this keyboard with just one finger tho. :D LOL :D

Well ... you still doing the therapy thing (typing don't' count!), or did you walk on 'em too soon? What's the prognosis on the arm and hand? Sounds to me like an as-yet-to-be-completed re-wiring job up there.

No matter, as long as the brains back up to speed, you can get this thing going with just a bit more sweat than the average guy. Keep at it.

David,

[toppack]

Yes, it does get very Aggrivating, but like you say 'It just takes more Time', It will get Done. ;)

Yes, my hand is Improving, Slowly. I think the model-building is helping a lot, since it forces me to use my left hand sometime. I've already completed a scratch-built surface RC ship, that I'd started before Stroke. :)

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

Yes, it does get very Aggrivating, but like you say 'It just takes more Time', It will get Done. ;)

Yes, my hand is Improving, Slowly. I think the model-building is helping a lot, since it forces me to use my left hand sometime. I've already completed a scratch-built surface RC ship, that I'd started before Stroke. :)

Your observations point out the obvious that first eluded me: Model building/kit-assembly is just about the best hand-eye-coordination therapy on the planet.

Neat!

David,

[toppack]

Yes, I'd bet Mike didn't Realize he's involved with the 'Medical Therapy' business. :)

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

Yes, I'd bet Mike didn't Realize he's involved with the 'Medical Therapy' business. :)

Not so loud .... he'll bill ya!

David,