Electronics/Motor Package Assembly ?

[toppack]

David,
I have the Electronics/Motor Package assembled and fitting in the aft SD compartment, except for one thing. The connecter-cable, on the small ballast-servo mounted down in tube, is too short to reach the ADF, (mounted with other servos,) before pushing it into tube.
What's the Trick to get it connected, use a cable-extension, or is there a better way ???

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

David,
I have the Electronics/Motor Package assembled and fitting in the aft SD compartment, except for one thing. The connecter-cable, on the small ballast-servo mounted down in tube, is too short to reach the ADF, (mounted with other servos,) before pushing it into tube.
What's the Trick to get it connected, use a cable-extension, or is there a better way ???

And the correct answer is ..... Cable Extension! (Ding-Ding-Ding-Ding...Ding!)

David,

[toppack]

Okay, I was just hopeing I would not have to have a big Wad of wire down in there Jamming up the ballast-servo. :(
Maybe I can work part of the wire back up the tube with a hooked piece of rod.

[toppack]

I desided, long time ago, that I'd never build a 'Ship in a Bottle' (too nerve-racking), but that's about what puting together the Sub-driver assembly Is. Some long special Tools are needed and it requires just as much Patience. ;)

[toppack]

I just ordered a Mtroniks Speed-control from Caswell.
I had read good things about them so started searching Internet, but the only ones I could find were in the UK with high shipping charges. But while searching I found a link to, of all places, Caswell.
:D LOL :D
Didn't know you had them. :o

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

I just ordered a Mtroniks Speed-control from Caswell.
I had read good things about them so started searching Internet, but the only ones I could find were in the UK with high shipping charges. But while searching I found a link to, of all places, Caswell.
:D LOL :D
Didn't know you had them. :o

After decades of trying every marine ESC I could -- and suffering what seemed to be one defeat after another -- I latched onto the Mtronik line of ESC's and fell in love.

I run my boats pretty hard and I've yet to clobber one of the MTronik ESC's. They are nearly bullet proof! In fact, our smaller SubDriver's are delivered with installed MTronik ESC's, all wired up and ready to go -- that's how confident Mr. Caswell and I are about these wonderful little things.

I love 'em!

Here's some inside-baseball for you:

I'm Mr. Caswell's 'r/c submarine expert' and it's my job to recommend what product Caswell buys from vendors and what he has developed in-house to support the r/c submarine side of the business. As a result I get a lot of free-bee items channeled my way for evaluation. Some cr**, some OK, and some stuff that must have been engineered on Altair-4! Bottom line: I run this s*** through the wringer and whatever I deem as useful and reliable I stamp with my seal-of-approval. Such was the case with the MTronik's line of ESC's.

Those specialized products, like the ADF -- a combined fail-safe and angle-keeper device -- needed exclusively for our SubDriver's, we farm out to guys like Kevin McLeod who take our specifications and produce the desired product.

Caswell Inc. is actively working to be the source for the kits, SubDriver's, and devices needed to get an r/c submarine model up and running. The MTronik distributorship is just one example of that on-going effort.

David,

[toppack]

Thanks for the Info! :)

[toppack]

I got the Mtroniks-Viper Speed-control installed and it's working Great. It does not have the long time-delay, when going from forward to reverse, that some ESCs do.
It's small and completely sealed (except for a push-buttom reset switch)
'I Like It'! :D

[toppack]

I thought I would mention a Modification I made to the receiver/servo mounting bracket in Sub-driver, that has worked out well. :)
I drilled out the pop-rivets holding the aluminum receiver mounting-plate to the vertical plate between receiver and servos. Then rotated the removed plate 90 degrees, drilled new holes, and put in new pop-rivets.
This gives more room for the larger 7-channel receiver I had and the wires going to it (above the vent/blow servo), makes routing wires easier, makes the weight-balance more equal in roll direction and gets the very open receiver up out of any bilge-water that may happen to leak in. ;)
I mounted the smaller speed-control (which is sealed better) on the bottom side of that plate and this is a good location for it, since the Mtroniks ESC comes with very short wire-leads, which I hard-wired in (no power/motor connectors to take up space or possibly open or get wet). :)

[Kazzer]

I thought I would mention a Modification I made to the receiver/servo mounting bracket in Sub-driver, that has worked out well. :)
I drilled out the pop-rivets holding the aluminum receiver mounting-plate to the vertical plate between receiver and servos. Then rotated the removed plate 90 degrees, drilled new holes, and put in new pop-rivets.
This gives more room for the larger 7-channel receiver I had and the wires going to it (above the vent/blow servo), makes routing wires easier, makes the weight-balance more equal in roll direction and gets the very open receiver up out of any bilge-water that may happen to leak in. ;)
I mounted the smaller speed-control (which is sealed better) on the bottom side of that plate and this is a good location for it, since the Mtroniks ESC comes with very short wire-leads, which I hard-wired in (no power/motor connectors to take up space or possibly open or get wet). :)

Photos????

[toppack]

Photos????

Okay, I'll do that, the next time I get the nerve to take it completely out of the tube again. :D LOL :D

[toppack]

I desided to rework the component layout in the sub-driver to improve it.
I moved the new smaller Mtroniks speed-control to one side of the servos and moved the snort pump from forward battery compartment to below the receiver in aft compartment.
(which I think is similar to what David intended to be done in the first-place) ;)
This will make enough space forward for 8 larger C-size batteries. I found that the run time of the AA type batteries was just too short, so this change should improve that greatly and less ballast-lead will be needed.
The biggest problem is that I now need to reroute the tubing to and from snort-pump thru the aft SD bulkhead and plug up the holes I put in the forward bulkhead for them. :(
No problem tho, It's a long time before Spring. :)

[toppack]

David, HELP!
While trying to get the extension cable back on the Vent/blow servo, with one hand, I broke a wire. :mad: (Gato Sub-driver)
So, I removed the servo and soldered on an extension, (as should have been done in the first place).
But now I need to know the best procedure for getting servo remounted down in tube, with the linkage rod thru bulkhead hole.
Do both inner bulkheads need to be slid thru tube so that bulkhead (that servo mounts on) is close to end of tube, after disconnecting copper-tank from tube.
Or should I try to make special tools to get the rod thru bulkhead ???
I could weld some long steel rods onto needle-nose pliers?
I have a long magnetic screwdriver that I can use to reinstall the servo-clamp screws, it's just getting the brass rod back thru bulkhead, with servo attached, is the problem, since it came out with servo? :(
Thanks,

[toppack]

Is getting the tank reinstalled thru tube wall the most difficult part of 'sliding the complete assembly thru tube' procedure?
I suppose the large vent holes in bottom of tube will give enough access to reinstall the tank, correct?

[Kazzer]

David, HELP!

Or should I try to make special tools to get the rod thru bulkhead ???
I could weld some long steel rods onto needle-nose pliers?
I have a long magnetic screwdriver that I can use to reinstall the servo-clamp screws, it's just getting the brass rod back thru bulkhead, with servo attached, is the problem, since it came out with servo? :(
Thanks,


I made a special long handled screwdriver to replace the screws. After some fiddling, I got to put that servo back in very quickly. Can't remember the actual method and I don't want to take mine apart again either, sorry! :)

[toppack]

I DID IT!
I used my Favorite Tool, *Duct-Tape*!
I taped the brass rod, with servo hanging on it, to a long steel rod, to push brass rod thru bulkhead. Then used an X-acto knife, taped to another rod, to cut it loose.
Didn't take long to do at all. :)
I have it all back together and surprizingly everything works again. :)

[toppack]

Somewhere in forum, David asked for suggestions of ways to improve the sub-driver assemblies.
* Lengthening the wires from Vent/blow servo to receiver definitely needs to be done, before the servo is installed.
Another connector in that cable, with an extension, down in tube, is too difficult to connect and too easy to pull apart.

And don't say 'that would take all the Fun out of it'. ;)
That cable has been No fun. :(

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

Somewhere in forum, David asked for suggestions of ways to improve the sub-driver assemblies.
* Lengthening the wires from Vent/blow servo to receiver definitely needs to be done, before the servo is installed.
Another connector in that cable, with an extension, down in tube, is too difficult to connect and too easy to pull apart.

And don't say 'that would take all the Fun out of it'. ;)
That cable has been No fun. :(

Good, sound points. And well taken. Thanks.

David,

[toppack]

I finally got everything installed, working and adjusted in the Gato SD, but Now I've discovered another potential Problem.
Many small Cracks have formed around 3 of the 4 screws holding the bulkhead, between electronics and center chambers, in the plastic tube. If the cracks get any longer they will bridge the o-ring seal and may leak ? :mad:
Is this a common problem?

[toppack]

I have an idea that the cracks were formed by the Cold temperature of the Blow gas hitting the plastic.
No where did I see any instructions saying that I could Not test and adjust the Vent/Blow servo without distroying the tube?
Oh, that's right, I didn't Get any Instructions with it! :(

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

I finally got everything installed, working and adjusted in the Gato SD, but Now I've discovered another potential Problem.
Many small Cracks have formed around 3 of the 4 screws holding the bulkhead, between electronics and center chambers, in the plastic tube. If the cracks get any longer they will bridge the o-ring seal and may leak ? :mad:
Is this a common problem?

Yup. Don't worry about 'em till the water starts to come in.

David,

[toppack]

Yup. Don't worry about 'em till the water starts to come in.

David,

Do you think putting CA-glue, plastic-glue or RTV over the cracks would help any, to keep them from growing?
I loosened the screws and put thread-locker around screws, to take pressure off the tube around holes, already.

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

Do you think putting CA-glue, plastic-glue or RTV over the cracks would help any, to keep them from growing?
I loosened the screws and put thread-locker around screws, to take pressure off the tube around holes, already.


Nope.

David,

[toppack]

I was afraid you were going to say that. :rolleyes:
I may dab a little glue on there anyway, to make myself feel better. ;)

[toppack]

Or maybe just hide all the cracks under *Duct-Tape*. :D
(Out of Sight, Out of Mind) :D

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

Or maybe just hide all the cracks under *Duct-Tape*. :D
(Out of Sight, Out of Mind) :D


... you have learned well, my young Jedi!

David,

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

I was afraid you were going to say that. :rolleyes:
I may dab a little glue on there anyway, to make myself feel better. ;)

Coward!

Where's your sense of adventure?

David,

[toppack]

I've found something I really Don't Like about my Gato sub. It's Not being able to get to the On/Off switch without removing the complete deck-assembly.:(
I'm thinking about designing a simple push/pull-rod (wire) that will slip over the toggle switch mounted in forward end of SD, going thru hull, partly hidden under forward deck.
I managed to seal the toggle-switch with just RTV, no boot over it, so it will be easy to slip a coiled wire over it. I hope! :)

On my next sub that will definitely get a high priority. ;)

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

I've found something I really Don't Like about my Gato sub. It's Not being able to get to the On/Off switch without removing the complete deck-assembly.:(
I'm thinking about designing a simple push/pull-rod (wire) that will slip over the toggle switch mounted in forward end of SD, going thru hull, partly hidden under forward deck.
I managed to seal the toggle-switch with just RTV, no boot over it, so it will be easy to slip a coiled wire over it. I hope! :)

On my next sub that will definitely get a high priority. ;)

I get at my switch through the square hole in the deck that gives access to the escape trunk door.

David,

[toppack]

David,
Are you talking about the Stair-well (ladder) opening Behind the forward access tube hatch (door). I suppose it's large enough (if I removed the ladder from below it), to reach in with some kind of Tool, (but not a finger). The delicate railing post around opening could be easily damaged by a tool, also.
Is that what you mean?

Oops, I forgot, you don't put on any of that 'Delicate Stuff', like ladder and railings, do you? :)
I would like to keep them on as long as possible. ;)

[toppack]

I was able to make a simple looped push-pull rod to slip over power switch to turn it off/on.
Where rod goes thru hull it is bent into a U shape, then goes into another hole in hull, to lock it in place. This allows the rod to be almost completely removed, so it won't interfer with installing the SD, which has to be pushed past the rod, to engage shaft-couplings, when installing SD.
It slips over the switch easily but does Not slip off when actvating switch, since the U-bend holds it tightly. :)
See Pics: (first is in Off position, 2nd is On)
Notice the black U-shaped wire protruding thru hull. That is all that is seen on outside, just at bottom of superstructure.

[shamrock]

toppack my name is shamrock. i also am building gato sub .the hose blew off my gas valve need help with repair any advice. thanks

[toppack]

toppack my name is shamrock. i also am building gato sub .the hose blew off my gas valve need help with repair any advice. thanks
Hello, shamrock
Luckily I've never had to make a repair such as that.
I hope David can tell us both the best way to do that, since that SD has the feedthru tube connected to both inner bulkheads, it's not going to be real easy, if you can't reconnect it with some special tools, such as long needle-nose plyers, working thru the large vent holes?
I think both inner bulkheads need to be removed as an assembly. But doing that without damage, is another question?
David, HELP!

[toppack]

Well, no one seems to have suggestions on the bulkhead-assembly removal.
So I would suggest spraying in some lubricate, such as silicone oil, down around the O-rings, to help remove and install the inner bulkheads. After removing the screws and end bulkhead assemblies, of course.
Then push out both, pressing at the inner connecting tube, with a large wooden dowl or something similar. Hopefully the O-rings will lossen and the complete assembly will slide out.

Automotive silicone hose/wire protection spray or PB-blaster lubricant spray should work.
I think I would try PB-blaster first, Great stuff!

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

Hello, shamrock
Luckily I've never had to make a repair such as that.
I hope David can tell us both the best way to do that, since that SD has the feedthru tube connected to both inner bulkheads, it's not going to be real easy, if you can't reconnect it with some special tools, such as long needle-nose plyers, working thru the large vent holes?
I think both inner bulkheads need to be removed as an assembly. But doing that without damage, is another question?
David, HELP!

No, no ... just use a hemostat, working through the central 1" flood/drain hole. Easy as pie.

David,

[toppack]

If you don't have any hemostats, I guess you need to get to Know a Nurse real well. While you're at it, get Her to put the hose back on for you. They have Great Hands, you know. :D

I knew if I started making suggestions, David would Wake up. :D
Sounds like a 'Difficult Pie' to me, tho!
I think what David is saying is that you NEVER want to try to remove the inner bulkheads, so I certainly hope we never have to.

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

If you don't have any hemostats, I guess you need to Know a Nurse real well. While you're at it, get Her to put the hose back on for you. They have Great Hands, you know. :D
I knew if I started making suggestions, David would Wake up. :D

Hey, I sometimes forget that what's old-hat and easy for me is an 'adventure' for others. You'll find these (big and small, get both) at Harbor Freight and the like.

David,

[shamrock]

If you don't have any hemostats, I guess you need to get to Know a Nurse real well. While you're at it, get Her to put the hose back on for you. They have Great Hands, you know. :D

I knew if I started making suggestions, David would Wake up. :D
Sounds like a 'Difficult Pie' to me, tho!
I think what David is saying is that you NEVER want to try to remove the inner bulkheads, so I certainly hope we never have to.

Thanks for the advice. I'll try this weekend when I get off of work to make these repairs. I've been reading the trouble you have had with your wtc, I've had all of the same problems, just covered cracks with aluminum tape. Once the hose is back on the valve do I need to glue it? Thanks for the help..it's really appreciated! Been kinda on my own here.

[toppack]

If the tubing is long enough, I would cut off about a 1/8" of it, removing part of the stretched out end. That way it will fit tighter when you slide it back on. If it still does not fit tight, some CA glue may help, but it should fit tight enough without glue.
Does yours have the eyelet-collars over tubing to help keep them tight?
If not, it would be best to get some from David.

[shamrock]

replaced hose and eyelet . pressure tested so far so good .
will be doing first real test run today hopeing for the best
like the way you ran on /off switch will be next project on my gato
hate pulling top to turn on and off