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Thread: Newbie no more - Building the Revell 1/72 Gato

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jul 2011
    Location
    Las Vegas, NV. - USA
    Posts
    1,605

    Default Newbie no more - Building the Revell 1/72 Gato

    I am making the plunge....I am entering the build contest. My goals are simple, 1) complete the submarine and 2) complete the submarine.


    I do not think I will dazzle you with any techniques or super detailing, it is too easy for me to chase rabbit trails and get boggled down in the details. I have read so many posts that my eyes are crossed, but I did see some trends....many start, a lot do not finish. I will follow the directions of people that have built submarines that work, including 5 DVDs of instruction by the wizard, posts from others, and help from you as I go. This build will come from the perspective of one who is building his first submarine - Revell 1/72 Gato.


    Welcome brothers to my 12 step accountability group - you.


    Normally I try to have everything in hand before I build, but this time I do not. I am saving up and selling off old models. I need to purchase the innards (D&E Sub driver for the Gato, ESC, Angle Driver, and TX, RX). I have an old Futaba 4 channel, but I need to get that converted to the new ground frequencies - I will need more than 4 channels for the Gato. So, Later AFTER I BUILD MY SUB, I will convert it and build a sub for my boy to play with. He may want to help with this build (does a 7 year old disqualify me in the build contest if he helps?)


    Nervous, me? It has been 15 years since I last built a model. Maybe I will post some photos of work I have done, but in the meantime I pray it is like a bike - once you know how you do not forget.


    Certainly I am open to suggestions and input. In the next day or two I will post photos. Every build of the Gato that I have seen have some of the same shots - I may not be any different, but then again - mine might be. I went to my friend Joey at HobbyTown here in Las Vegas. He remembers me and was excited to see me get back into building. When I mentioned what I was building he was genuinely interested, maybe I can get some others interested in this wonderful hobby. Who knows... One step at a time.

    Peace,
    Tom

  2. #2
    Join Date
    May 2010
    Location
    South Australia
    Posts
    316

    Default

    Go for it TOM, Hay if the only thing you do is follow the instructions on the DVD's you will have a winner.

    Take your time, take lots of photos, and NEVER be afraid to ask for advice or help.

    Look forward to your posts.

    Cheers Chris,

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Jun 2011
    Location
    Montgomery, Alabama, United States
    Posts
    78

    Default

    Good luck...be strong
    Doodah
    If you ignore the problem long enough, it will go away. Even flooding stops eventually!

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Aug 2008
    Location
    Virginia Beach, VA
    Posts
    5,616

    Default

    Just build the damned thing and stop whining!

    David

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Jul 2011
    Location
    Las Vegas, NV. - USA
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    Default

    @Chris - your work is an inspiration.
    @jlday1256 - Thank you!
    @David - Ahhh, my first kick in the pants. Whining stopped.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Jul 2011
    Location
    Las Vegas, NV. - USA
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    Default

    Unpacked_Gato.jpg
    What an impressive model!
    The blue resin castings (upper left) are the Gato D&E Fittings Package from http://www.caswellplating.com/models/gato.html
    First impressions of the Gato: Big, not too big, but decent. There are a lot of nice touches and details. Included are your mission papers with a code to see Charles Stewart share some his experiences aboard the USS Cobia in WWII.
    Mission_Docs.jpg

    The amount of detail LOOKS good and for the most part relatively accurate. Compare the edge of the bow on the left to the flood ports. They thinned it out for me!
    Nice touch.
    Thick_Thin.jpg

    Time to get clipping. I trimmed the sprue trees to remove major parts, protect the delicate ones and group into areas of building. That way I am not hunting for parts as much.
    There are a bunch of pins for bow, hull, and stern alignment. I put these in a 35mm film canister.
    Trim_Parts_a.jpg
    Trim_Parts_b.jpg

    Speaking of delicate, look at this railing. Nice detail.
    Nice_Railings.jpg

    Created a tent to protect it. Tempted to build this in brass. Any of you that have built this, how has the plastic survived the years?
    Nice_Protect.jpg
    This radar reflector looks O.K. from the front......
    Radar_a.jpg

    but from the side or back it is too thick. I might have to detail this out.
    Radar_b.jpg
    A majority of the larger pieces were easy to identify, but the bulkheads were too close in shape and to prevent a mistake, I placed the part numbers on them. Once installed a coat of paint on the inside will cover the writing.

    Number_b.jpgNumber_a.jpg
    Trimming the parts took some time, the more delicate items were left on the sprue, but trimmed to group by like kind.
    Speaking of sprues, I keep several just in case I need to plug a hole or using heat from a candle, stretch a sprue out to create an antennae or railing.
    Time to watch one or two of the DVDs and see what might be the next step. The bow is aching to have the doors cut out for D&E torpedoes....Would it make sense to cut them out now and worry about purchasing them later? I would assume it is easier to remove now before the halves are put together, but have Dremel and blade, nothing can stop me from hacking at it later :-)

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Aug 2008
    Posts
    1,562

    Default

    Yes get stuck in. You can do it. I look forward to watching this kit come alive.

    Best
    J
    John Slater

    Sydney Australia

    You would not steal a wallet so don't steal people's livelihood.
    Think of that before your buy "cheap" pirated goods or download others work protected by copyright. Theft is theft.




  8. #8
    Join Date
    Aug 2008
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    Virginia Beach, VA
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    Default

    You can cut out the shutter doors anytime. Proceed!

    David

  9. #9
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    Jul 2011
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    Watched the first DVD and there is a lot of great information and tips packed into it.


    The hull was packed with card board separating the halves and bound in three areas with a plastic covered wire. The wires were not tight and I did not see any drastic bowing or curvature in the two halves.
    Hull_01.jpgHull_02.jpgHull_03.jpg
    Once it was removed from the packing, I checked the fit. There is a little gap. Not too bad. With just the lightest of pressure they matched up real nice.
    Hull_04.jpg
    Time to do some quick sanding before I glue, but let me share a tip/tool I use (I hope this is a helpful tip). I learned about this when I was a jeweler and have applied it to modeling. I like to make my own sanding sticks of different grits (who does't), but maybe this is different. These are easy to make and when you wear out the sandpaper, just peel the layer and off you go creating more dust. Here is how I make them. First you need sandpaper. I like 3m wet and dry it scores well. Other brands may work, so try it out and see. A paint stick from your favorite hardware store or paint supply. Some sticks are very thin, I avoid using those. Check around, you will see one company uses a thicker stick. The thicker sticks are the ones I like because it is easier to staple into. Next, something to scribe the paper with like a scratch all or a punch. Lastly, a stapler. Just a simple office type paper stapler.
    S_Stick_01.jpg
    Line up the stick along the edge of the sandpaper(sandpaper facing down). You may need to trim your sandpaper if the mixing stick is short. I save those strips for another tool I will talk about later.
    Score the back of the sandpaper lightly (the object is not to cut through the sandpaper). This will give the paper an edge to bend on.
    S_Stick_02.jpg

    You are going to be rolling the sandpaper and stick together. At each edge of the stick you will want to score the paper. So, bring the mixing stick and the sandpaper up and score along the edge.
    S_Stick_03.jpg

    Roll to the next edge of the stick and score the paper.
    S_Stick_04.jpg

    Keep rolling and scoring the paper until you run out of sandpaper. Then run some staples into the edge of the mixing stick. You will need a stapler that allows the bottom half to swing back of course.



    S_Stick_06.jpgS_Stick_05.jpg

    Whatever is left over, scribe the paper a couple of times to make a deeper cut into the sandpaper. Then peel it against the edge.
    S_Stick_07.jpg


    S_Stick_08.jpgS_Stick_09.jpg



    Back to the hull. I sanded the edges to clean them up and remove any oils from the injection release agent. As a side note, in the past I use to wash my plastic in a mild detergent to remove the oils. I had not seen it mentioned on any of the posts, so I did not do it. It is not too late to do it, but Is there a reason people are not? Is it necessary anymore? or is it so common knowledge that there is not a need to mention it?
    Hull_05.jpg
    Placed the pins in and fit the hull together. Using painters tape to bring the halves together, I bound the hull together for a close fit.




    Hull_06.jpg
    Hull_07.jpg
    Then applied liquid glue made for plastic along the edge avoiding the tape. I will give the hull several hours to dry. Then remove the tape and place glue where the tape was.
    Hull_08.jpg




    The next step is to mark and cut the super structure that is underneath the deck and dreaded hull separation.
    I have seen two camps. One cuts along the waterline and another cuts just under the deck.
    Here are a couple of examples:
    Waterline: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5SSDLLYrg-o
    U
    nder the deck: http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1135331
    O
    r here is another under the deck (different sub): http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=r27INRGIYhE

    A
    ny reason I should not go under the deck? It looks like I have room if I plan to put in the
    D&E Sub driver for the Gato.
    Last edited by trout; 07-28-2012 at 01:40 AM.

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Aug 2008
    Location
    Virginia Beach, VA
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    5,616

    Default

    It's been done, but I like to have plenty of room for my fat fingers. Your call.

    David,

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