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Walter type XVIIb scale 1:30

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  • #76
    The beast is alive!!!!!!, it wiggled it's tail, see for yourself.




    Manfred.
    Fertig zum unterwasser.

    Comment


    • #77
      It has been a long time and she's covered by dust, but i'm heating up this project for some more progress, is it possible to move this thread to Builder Threads?


      Manfred.
      Fertig zum unterwasser.

      Comment


      • #78


        Talking about dust, she must have been untouched for two years, no fear !!!, i've cleaned her up bright and shiny.



        Started again with that doomed tail, i noticed that the rudder was a bit small, certainly not scale, took up the task to make me a new one, cladded with aluminum foil and some rivets, next time the dive-planes.


        Manfred.
        Fertig zum unterwasser.

        Comment


        • #79
          It took me some time, but the complete rear is cladded with aluminum foil, still have to add the rivets to the underside of the rear, pictures, and get your sun-glasses on, it's blinking.







          It's tedious work, but the result is worth it, this the upperpart.



          Flipped the boat upside down, and started on the underside.



          By constant rotating the hull i worked my way around with the aluminum foil.



          But once everything is done, you get this as the result for the underside, still have to do the rivetpart thingy, but there's light at the end of the tunnel.
          The cladding took me some weeks, did this step after step, because the swearingtin was filled up to the top.


          Manfred.
          Fertig zum unterwasser.

          Comment


          • #80
            Oh, man! You maniac!!!!! I so hate you today. You're doing your documentation proud, pal. YOU are the gold-standard in the detailing department.

            M
            "... well, that takes care of Jorgenson's theory!"

            Comment


            • #81
              Hah!!!!, it seems your knee is making you grumpy, get it fixed!!!,crawl, walk and run my friend, there's more to come, be patient (or not, i don't care)


              Manfred.
              Fertig zum unterwasser.

              Comment


              • #82
                Looking at those stern planes. Did you cank in some tab differential to counter propeller torque????

                M
                "... well, that takes care of Jorgenson's theory!"

                Comment


                • #83
                  You mean the tapering at the base of the sternplanes?, if so, this has happened due to the fact of hiding those sliding rods, needed some more height.

                  Manfred.
                  Fertig zum unterwasser.

                  Comment


                  • #84
                    If I understand what David is asking, are the stern planes not in alignment (one slightly up and one slightly down) to offset the torque of the prop? Is that what you meant to David?

                    You got it, Tom.

                    M
                    Last edited by He Who Shall Not Be Named; 01-04-2015, 03:05 PM.
                    If you can cut, drill, saw, hit things and swear a lot, you're well on the way to building a working model sub.

                    Comment


                    • #85
                      Ah, to relieve you guys, no, they are aligned, due to cladding the aluminum foil, one went up the other went down, normally they stand neutral, for encountering the torque issue i'll follow the same path as i did with the V80.
                      This boat has also a simular cross section at the rear, i simply putted the heaviest parts the lowest inside the hull, she stands like a rock, even in tight turns.


                      Manfred,
                      Fertig zum unterwasser.

                      Comment


                      • #86
                        Originally posted by MFR1964 View Post
                        Ah, to relieve you guys, no, they are aligned, due to cladding the aluminum foil, one went up the other went down, normally they stand neutral, for encountering the torque issue i'll follow the same path as i did with the V80.
                        This boat has also a simular cross section at the rear, i simply putted the heaviest parts the lowest inside the hull, she stands like a rock, even in tight turns.


                        Manfred,
                        Thanks, Manfred. That answers.

                        M
                        "... well, that takes care of Jorgenson's theory!"

                        Comment


                        • #87
                          I was wondering what the purpose of the foiling? Im tuning late to this post, but the idea, gave me another idea. I use gold and silver leaf quit a bit in my signage business. It is rather pricey if you use the 22kt actual gold leaf, but there are quite a few synthetics in various metals, silver, copper, bronze, ect. I used the silver on a model of the "spirit of st louis" for one of my son's elementry school history projects, some many years ago. I burnished the cowling with a small pencil eraser, by hand. The effect turned out real well. I may try some antique bronze on plastic props.

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                          • #88
                            Von,

                            This way i can make my rivets visible, and as a bonus you get real panel-lines instead of scribed one's.

                            Manfred.
                            Fertig zum unterwasser.

                            Comment


                            • #89
                              Originally posted by MFR1964 View Post
                              Von,

                              This way i can make my rivets visible, and as a bonus you get real panel-lines instead of scribed one's.

                              Manfred.
                              Verry good sir. I did a similar laminate, on a wood plug hull for the same reason. I used sheet aluminium and fitted each pannel. No rivets tho. I have used beer can aluminium, that I made rivet lines from the backside, by pressing a fine tooth saw blade on the metal before installing the piece.

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