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Scratch Build Project 955 Borei K-535 "Yuri Dolgoruki" SSBN. 1/140 Scale.

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  • https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=R7iu...ature=youtu.be

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    • Hello all,

      It's been another busy week and have managed to squeeze some model time in in the evenings. There is a big model show coming up in Newcastle in Early September. It's mainly a big model train show with some model boat guys and some random other stuff. I went last year and had my mike get blown sideways by the wake turbulence of the King George V Battleship I was shadowing.. I want to have Borei in the water for this show.

      Anyway, the tail section as mentioned previously is the are of the boat that will take up the most time and effort getting right. Next step was to spray and get detail on the stern planes. I decided to spray the anechoic tiles on the stern planes, just like the sail/fin. So I sprayed the parts with the Satin black that I have been using as the base and then masked over with thin strip of masking tape and then fire up the compressor and spray it with the dark grey that I have been using to get the tile pattern. Let it dry and then peel off the tape. I think the results have been pretty good..

      Anyway after the spray the parts simply need their Servo clevice horns. I cut out a small rectangular piece of brass and drill a hole in one end big enough for the clevice to fit in one end and a tiny rectangular slot for the slot profile that I filed into the end of the brass rotating shaft of the stern planes. Once this is done I can then solder the two brass fittings together. Once I get the solder hot enough I could get a good flow and the joint was solid. This would then allow me pretty quickly to install the stern planes. I just needed to make sure that they were aligned along the shaft axis and would both sit level and at a proper right angle to the hull. I made up a simple jig that allowed the two planes to sit level whilst being glued. Some dabs of super glue to initially hold then some resin thickened with talc and some light weave.

      Now I looked at the top section. The Top rudder section and the lower section would need their own control linkages and once again I fashioned a thin brass strip to fit like a "C" shape that would allow both top and bottom rudders to be connected yet also move around the prop shaft that would pass right through the middle. In order to work out alignment I would need to cut off the stern upper hull section that I would be joining to the lower hull anyway. So I marked out and cut this upper stern hull section just in front of the Rudder. Once cut I could work out precise alignment of the top and bottom rudders. I also needed to work out the lower edge of the upper hull and make sure that it fits neatly around where the horizontal planes interface with the sides of the hull. any adjustments would be minute but if out would make the movements of the upper and lower rudders stiff and prone to binding. Once the alignment was good I could then slip the brass bracket onto the brass shaft of the top rudder as it extends down into the top of the hull. Hold it in position and solder it. This bracket is quite easily bendable so getting the hole on the bottom to line up with the lower hull wasn't an issue . I just had to make sure that they were parallel with one exactly on top of the other.

      Meanwhile I decided to continue on with the tiling effort on the main hull. This would mean a couple of hours cutting strips of really fine tape and applying. The result with the sail and the stern planes and rudders was simply too good to ignore. I would do the whole boat.



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      Enough for now,

      Till next time.

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      • Onward, tape Meister!

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        • Hello all,


          So after spending a couple of hours laying down strip tape over the whole, I was ready for spraying. Saturday morning and the sun was out. Just right conditions for spraying. I had a batch of the dark grey that I had been using from the stern planes and the fin and so started with a coating about 100mm out from the hull. This little spray brush is fantastic as it is really hard to over spray and get dribble. I'm finding it quite easy to do I think ,a reasonable job. Anyway after spraying the rear of the hull from about halfway along the missile deck I could see a distinct difference between the dark grey and the satin black undercoat that was put down earlier.

          I could pend hours making sure that each little tile was absolutely the same size as those around it. I could also wonder and worry about how the tiles converge over surfaces that converge or deviate apart but my thinking has been that these tiles should only just be noticeable and very subtle. They should not be glaring. As you can see from the green tape there is irregularities but I believe the finished job vindicates this approach.

          Once I had the entire top hull sprayed I would look at doing the joint between the top and bottom hull. The stern top section had already been joined but now it was time to have the lower bow section glued to the upper bow hull. the "Z' cut coming just after where the forward planes are situated. I sanded the mating edges where the two front sections top and bottom would be glued together. At this point I would loose and couple of mm in length of patterned tile section, that could easily be re-done.

          Placing tape across the lower hull at the bow section I outlined the area where the separation cut would be made that would cross underneath where the aluminium screw plate would hold the two hulls together. This aluminium plate had a hole drilled then threaded for a small screw to go up underneath to allow the two hull sections to be screwed together. I placed the top hull down so the registering lips would align the top and bottom hulls together then used tape to hold the two sections together. I roughed up this are a bit further and applies some thin weave cloth and some resin.

          Once this had dried I would easily make the cut along the tape line that would separate the lower bow section now glues to the bow top section and then resin inside, and sand the outside and make look neat. Some filler and further sanding.

          Till next time....


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