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Scratch build Los Angeles class

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  • Scratch build Los Angeles class


    Hello every one!

    I'm planning to build a dry hull Los Angeles class submarine, with integrated arduino for a bunch of fetures, such as a failsafe(auto surface).

    Right now im in the planing face and I am designing a 3d model in a CAD program. After that the plan is at the moment too 3d print the hull in PLA plastic ( the wall thickness will be approximately 5 mm to withstand some pressure).

    I have one crucial problem at the moment. I can't figure out the best way to access the interior of the submarine and still make that access point waterproof enough. This might seem silly to you but I lack the experience needed at ths time ;D

    It would be nice to get some tips and tricks too for building such a submarine or any submarine in general since it is my first ever submarine build.

    By the way this is a school project me and my class mate started and is expected to be finished in about two and a half years or so. (We started a bit earlier than the rest of the class because the 100 hours that is set aside in the third year of school for this project isn't close to enough time for us)

    Cheers

    Otto


    PS sorry if I have a poor english. It's not my mother tongue... ;P



  • #2
    Well, I assume you are engaged in an engineering assignment who's purpose is to familiarize you with practical machines, fabrication techniques, materials properties, hydrodynamics, and sub-system integration.

    If so. Abandon the CNC and 3D robots and build this thing yourselves ...... learn from the exercise. Stay away from the keyboard and CAD pretty pictures; put pencil to graph-paper and skull things out by hand. You do have hands? right? You're either going to approach this project as a practical engineer who puts hands to matter, or just another mindless automaton getting other automations to do you work for you. Your call.

    Your command of English is excellent.

    And don't make it a dry-hull -- you'll spend all your time making it watertight. Put all the mechanisms in a WTC (water tight container) and mount that within a wet-hull.

    David
    "... well, that takes care of Jorgenson's theory!"

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    • #3
      While I am not against 3D printed stuff and occasionally use it to taunt some members on this forum, however David is right on many levels. A wet hull reduces the issues you need to overcome in using a dry hull and building it by hand (it is easier for many parts of sub building) adds new skills and a bigger sense of accomplishment. The tactile engagement helps you know your device better than just hitting print. Where I do disagree with David is 3D printing uses a lot of brain cells and thought processes to make the initial creation. I would hazard a guess that ALL submarine and major ship building done today are created in 3D. So, it does prepare you for that. Doing the construction by hand adds to your skill set and makes you more marketable. IMHO
      If you are determined to 3D print, making it a wet hull means you do not need a 5mm thick hull and can do 2mm. It will also reduce the amount of ballast you need to overcome the dry hull buoyancy. Please post your progress no matter which way you go. We are here to help.
      If you can cut, drill, saw, hit things and swear a lot, you're well on the way to building a working model sub.

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      • #4
        As a point of caution, PLA can, unless monitored closely, leave very thin gaps that are not air-tight. I experienced that first-hand when I was playing around with endcaps. Going with a wet-hull eliminates the danger of that happening.

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