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A U-Boat In Ireland

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  • The Boattrainman
    started a topic A U-Boat In Ireland

    A U-Boat In Ireland


    This build thread will detail the building of a R/C static diving 1/40 scale U-Boat with working lights and sound.


    Following my build and test bed for ideas detailed in my 'A Skipjack in Ireland' thread, I'm commencing a 1/40 (ish) U-Boat build using the old warhorse of a Robbe 1/40 'semi-scale' kit.......

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    ..........long out of production, I found this perfect example on Ebay for 380 Euro.

    Combined with a 900ml Engel Piston Tank and their Bayonet Lock with Accurate Model Parts decals and the Modellbau-Wikinger upgrade parts.....................

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    ............ which includes scale decks, flood/drainage holes, conning tower, railings (Wintergarden), scopes, and a 'Tech Rack' designed for Engel internals (total 320 Euro).


    Now before anyone chimes in with the comments about the Robbe U47 kit and it's flaws, let me quote from the staggeringly researched work 'The Wolf Pack: A Collection Of U-Boat Modelling Articles' free to download from:-

    http://amp.rokket.biz/docs/the_wolf_pack_compr.pdf


    The Wolf Pack




    ''This semi-scale kit is an ideal starter kit for radio-controlled submarine modellers, and fulfils this

    remit successfully. It bears a passing resemblance to its intended subject – the VIIB U 47 – but is

    inaccurate in almost every respect to the real boat. This effectively precludes the building of an accurate

    replica''


    This is a harsh and mostly accurate verdict, however having built one of these kits into a fairly decent U-203 in 2006/2007, time has moved on and we have a huge amount of assistance from small suppliers with accurate upgrade parts. Also, this is the only large scale U-Boat I can get into my vehicle as it breaks into two smaller parts.

    So I will be disarding the Robbe decks, tower, flooding slots, props, prop shafts, tech rack and other parts for better commercially available versions or scratchbuilt items.

    Two major hurdles have to be crossed before I can begin, firstly choosing a boat from over 700 examples at an exact time period and trying to get a handle on the details contained in the above book. Using this source and other material I will narrow the choice over the next few weeks based on the available research and hopefully some good images of my chosen boat if discovered.

    I expect I will need 18 months to 2 years to complete this project.

    Secondly, as no good deed goes unpunished I recently fractured my hand helping my niece fix up her new house........


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    ............so it's mostly parts acquisition and research for the moment!!!!


    The Boattrainman
    Last edited by The Boattrainman; 07-27-2017, 08:02 AM.

  • The Boattrainman
    replied
    To finish the rigging, the three jumper cables need to made from stripped cable, four wires are wound using my dremel, and then thye are flooded with super thin superglue to keep them together. Thread or light rigging cord won't work, it would be too fragile plus it will never hang like real cable.

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    There's a balance between scale appearance and functionality, the wires are routed from the insulators via brass eyelets to the aerials.

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    The tower is almost complete now.

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    The rotating KDB (Kristall-Dreh-Basis) on the fore deck was a listening device that could be rotated around 360 degrees (but only functioned for 340 degrees due to engine noise).

    I've decided to model this and make it work. The KBB itself is easy to make, a short length of tube is inserted thtough the deck and a rectangular base added.........

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    .......the rotating part is a 3mm brass rod, with a styrene top and a small collar to bear on the base.

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    It's finished with bolt heads and base support..............

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    ....................making it work will be a whole different battle, as the motor will be outside the WTC.


    The Boattrainman




    Last edited by The Boattrainman; 08-18-2018, 10:40 AM.

    Leave a comment:


  • The Boattrainman
    replied
    Now for the rigging, an area that can make or break most model boats.

    Thankfully, it's just the three aerials and the four safety wires around the conning tower.

    I used a wooden board to get the lengths right and not damage the sub during construction..........

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    ..... and used the 0.75mm good quality rigging cord (which I hung from the ceiling with heavy weights for about three weeks to remove as much tendency to stretch) that came with the model and some oblong fishing line items for the insulators.

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    As the aerials will stretch with time, I have left a short section at the end on all three aerials that can be replaced rather than re-do the whole thing. The oblong insulators look daft in bright colours but will be toned down during painting.

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    All the rigging is terminated by a loop with a 5mm length of 2mm heatshrink sleeve and a dab of superglue (no knots!), once a bit of heat is applied the heatshrink squashes the superglue and makes a tight fit.

    The safety wires terminate in bottlescrew tensioners, the items I had in my spares box were whitemetal but were poor quality, so I made my own from 1.5mm brass tube and some pins.

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    They are temporarily attached to the model with one end just tied as they will need to be tensionsed on the final model once painted.

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    Not as ardous as my last model ship that took 3 months to rig, the final piece will be the three jumper wires from the tower to the aerials, but again they cannot be sorted till the model is finished.

    The rigging will be all permanently attached to the tower with figure-8 wire loops, but removeable at the ends as the tower comes off.

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    The Boattrainman



    Last edited by The Boattrainman; 08-12-2018, 01:08 PM.

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  • The Boattrainman
    replied
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    The On/Off switch is stabilised with a small fitting, that can be removed to change the bellows.


    The speaker for the sound module is a fully waterproof 2inch item (2 bucks from China), and is located under the aft deck.

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    I re-made the support at the hull break, it was flimsy from all the cutting and hacking. The new one is styrene backed with a 0.5mm brass plate for strength.

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    For added security I added a locating pin of a 3mm machine bolt with 6mm head that locates into a slot in the fore section.

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    Here it is about to locate in the slot, it stops any attempt at missaligning the two hull sections.

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    So the wiring and rear section is complete, lots of snagging left to do, here it is top and bottom.

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    This is officially the most complex project I've ever worked on, but getting into the final stretches is very rewarding.

    The Boattrainman
    Last edited by The Boattrainman; 08-03-2018, 05:00 PM.

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  • The Boattrainman
    replied
    Progress slowed a bit over the summer, but I finally got the electronics sorted.

    Here are the four modules.....

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    Mtroniks sound, Mtroniks 40amp ESC, Engel Ballast Tank switch and Pitch Controller.


    They just about fit on the equipment tray over the batteries, the Mtroniks units are held in place with a plastic surround and the Ballast switch is screwed down.

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    I made a main switch from styrene, with a 25amp fuse and a green LED to indicate power is on, it shows through the end plate as the Ballast Tank Switch blocks the other end.

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    Here is the final install.

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    The positive bus bar is under the Ballast Tank Switch. The green switch turns on the ESC which also powers the Receiver, the red switch the lights and the yellow switch the sound system. Effectively this means all items are separately switched as the main switch turns on the Ballast Tank unit. For normal operation all ancillary switches will be left in the on position, and the main switch {via the brass pushrod to the rear and exiting the boat} will only be used.

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    The negative bus bar is behind the red and green switches out of the way.

    I went overboard on the wiring, it's all 17amp automotive, as with two large motors, I want a bit of a margin for overheating. All sound and and lights is just 5amp.

    I got a name plate made by my usual maker to match my other models.........

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    .....................and finally, part of the distraction is I was gifted a kit for a Steam Launch with working Steam Engine, so I've been sharing my modelling time with this beauty.
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    The Boattrainman
    Last edited by The Boattrainman; 07-31-2018, 06:20 PM.

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  • The Boattrainman
    replied
    Thanks Bill, how's your build going.

    I'm doing the wiring in prep for the arrival of the ESC, Sound Module, Pitch Controller and Ballast Tank Switch arriving at the end of the month (me Birthday!), plus I want as much of the internal stuff done as possible before I do a trim test.

    Long way to go yet, 15 months in, still a few more to go yet........

    Rob

    Leave a comment:


  • cgbillb
    replied
    Rob
    Wow all great looking, wonderful. Thanks for the photos , cant wait to see her in the water
    Bill

    Leave a comment:


  • The Boattrainman
    replied

    Here is the start of the internal wiring. The main on/off switch is built into a styrene holder, and the main fuse installed beside.

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    The on/off switch pushrod will have to run the entire length of the WTC, paper templates are used for the electronic components.

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    The three servos are installed and pushrods added, the rear plane servo (the side ways one), needs to be dropped lower.

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    The motors get wiring and supression kits.

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    This the rear end of the WTC, upside down, the price for the 900ml piston tank is very tight clearances around the prop shafts and servos, I added a joint in the water inlet as I have to take the servos in and out frequently to get alignment.

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    Right way up, the wiring for the speaker and lights is led down the WTC towards the batteries, and there's just space for the Receiver, and the space beside the 4 block connector will take the pitch controller. The rear plane servo is sitting up against the top tech tack rod, the two pieces of plastic help hold it in place. The motor wiring comes through the floor and will be sorted next.

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    The Boattrainman

    Last edited by The Boattrainman; 06-12-2018, 05:06 PM.

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  • SubHuman
    replied
    Yeah, the Arkmodel kit designers made a mistake when they were designing the rudder linkages. The horns are too long and hit the hull. I fabricated my own from a bit of brass flat stock and a plated wheel collar. Video here.

    Leave a comment:


  • cgbillb
    replied
    Rob
    Yes it is a
    1/48 Arkmodel kit,
    and I have a problem right out of the box, here is a photo of my rudder linkage, not going to work, thinking of designing one like yours. Any ideas.
    Bill
    Not going to work Help

    Leave a comment:


  • The Boattrainman
    replied
    Click image for larger version  Name:	image_37370.jpg Views:	1 Size:	240.5 KB ID:	126503

    I found these pushrod terminators online, handy as I want the screws pointing upwards for convenience.


    Here are the four pushrods without bellows exiting the end cap, top left is to the on/off switch, then left to right, rudder, rear planes and fore planes.

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    The fore plane reverse throw mechanism and the rudder pushrod mechanism.

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    Here's the whole rear section with pushords...............

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    ......looks roomy but it's very tight for access in there.
    Last edited by The Boattrainman; 05-27-2018, 03:50 PM.

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  • The Boattrainman
    replied
    Hi Bill,

    Thanks for the kind words, if you root around the forum, there are amazing builds out there, even if it's not the exact sub you are making, the advice is great, and Mr. Merriman is always on hand to steer in the right direction.

    As a matter of interest, what point are you starting out from, I presume it's the 1/48 Arkmodel kit, I hope you're not starting on converting the Robbe one as I did, it's a severe tect of patience!

    Rob

    Leave a comment:


  • cgbillb
    replied
    Rob
    I believe you are wrong, in stating that “The Wolf Pack, a Collection of U Boat Modelling Articles “


    Is sort of a Bible for U-Boat nerds.Your build log is the only Bible any modeler needs, great work
    This will be my bible for my U-92 printing it off now
    Thanks for all the great information
    Bill

    Leave a comment:


  • The Boattrainman
    replied
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    The rear light is pure white, but reflecting off the inside it appears off-white which is great, I don't like pure white on period vessels.


    The hull break is better with lots of sanding and fillets of styrene.

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    Here are two final shots of the end cap and through hull openings, all 13 of them (4 pushrods, 4 tech rack rods, 12v/speaker, piston tank water inlet, aerial extension and 2 prop tubes, I'm looking forward to my next project with just one!

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    All tided up when the rear cover plate is attached, the pushrod exits hade LED bezels as surrounds and the prop shafts have 10mm washers for a neat finish. No one will ever see the inside of the boat, but it's better than looking at the messy end cap!

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    The Boattrainman
    Last edited by The Boattrainman; 05-25-2018, 04:55 PM.

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  • The Boattrainman
    replied
    The wiring can now be tidied up, 12v down the starboard and aerial extension down the port.

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    The rear light can now be sorted, it's a brass etch stuck to the deck.


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    A 2mm LED is inserted through a hole into the unit.

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    A plastic surround is the added and filled with epoxy encasing the wiring and the capacitor that reduces the voltage.

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    The Boattrainman
    Last edited by The Boattrainman; 05-23-2018, 04:43 PM.

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