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A U-Boat In Ireland

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  • The Boattrainman
    started a topic A U-Boat In Ireland

    A U-Boat In Ireland


    This build thread will detail the building of a R/C static diving 1/40 scale U-Boat with working lights and sound.


    Following my build and test bed for ideas detailed in my 'A Skipjack in Ireland' thread, I'm commencing a 1/40 (ish) U-Boat build using the old warhorse of a Robbe 1/40 'semi-scale' kit.......

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    ..........long out of production, I found this perfect example on Ebay for 380 Euro.

    Combined with a 900ml Engel Piston Tank and their Bayonet Lock with Accurate Model Parts decals and the Modellbau-Wikinger upgrade parts.....................

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    ............ which includes scale decks, flood/drainage holes, conning tower, railings (Wintergarden), scopes, and a 'Tech Rack' designed for Engel internals (total 320 Euro).


    Now before anyone chimes in with the comments about the Robbe U47 kit and it's flaws, let me quote from the staggeringly researched work 'The Wolf Pack: A Collection Of U-Boat Modelling Articles' free to download from:-

    http://amp.rokket.biz/docs/the_wolf_pack_compr.pdf


    The Wolf Pack




    ''This semi-scale kit is an ideal starter kit for radio-controlled submarine modellers, and fulfils this

    remit successfully. It bears a passing resemblance to its intended subject – the VIIB U 47 – but is

    inaccurate in almost every respect to the real boat. This effectively precludes the building of an accurate

    replica''


    This is a harsh and mostly accurate verdict, however having built one of these kits into a fairly decent U-203 in 2006/2007, time has moved on and we have a huge amount of assistance from small suppliers with accurate upgrade parts. Also, this is the only large scale U-Boat I can get into my vehicle as it breaks into two smaller parts.

    So I will be disarding the Robbe decks, tower, flooding slots, props, prop shafts, tech rack and other parts for better commercially available versions or scratchbuilt items.

    Two major hurdles have to be crossed before I can begin, firstly choosing a boat from over 700 examples at an exact time period and trying to get a handle on the details contained in the above book. Using this source and other material I will narrow the choice over the next few weeks based on the available research and hopefully some good images of my chosen boat if discovered.

    I expect I will need 18 months to 2 years to complete this project.

    Secondly, as no good deed goes unpunished I recently fractured my hand helping my niece fix up her new house........


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    ............so it's mostly parts acquisition and research for the moment!!!!


    The Boattrainman
    Last edited by The Boattrainman; 07-27-2017, 08:02 AM.

  • The Boattrainman
    replied
    Thanks Bill, how's your build going.

    I'm doing the wiring in prep for the arrival of the ESC, Sound Module, Pitch Controller and Ballast Tank Switch arriving at the end of the month (me Birthday!), plus I want as much of the internal stuff done as possible before I do a trim test.

    Long way to go yet, 15 months in, still a few more to go yet........

    Rob

    Leave a comment:


  • cgbillb
    replied
    Rob
    Wow all great looking, wonderful. Thanks for the photos , cant wait to see her in the water
    Bill

    Leave a comment:


  • The Boattrainman
    replied

    Here is the start of the internal wiring. The main on/off switch is built into a styrene holder, and the main fuse installed beside.

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    The on/off switch pushrod will have to run the entire length of the WTC, paper templates are used for the electronic components.

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    The three servos are installed and pushrods added, the rear plane servo (the side ways one), needs to be dropped lower.

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    The motors get wiring and supression kits.

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    This the rear end of the WTC, upside down, the price for the 900ml piston tank is very tight clearances around the prop shafts and servos, I added a joint in the water inlet as I have to take the servos in and out frequently to get alignment.

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    Right way up, the wiring for the speaker and lights is led down the WTC towards the batteries, and there's just space for the Receiver, and the space beside the 4 block connector will take the pitch controller. The rear plane servo is sitting up against the top tech tack rod, the two pieces of plastic help hold it in place. The motor wiring comes through the floor and will be sorted next.

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    The Boattrainman

    Last edited by The Boattrainman; 06-12-2018, 05:06 PM.

    Leave a comment:


  • SubHuman
    replied
    Yeah, the Arkmodel kit designers made a mistake when they were designing the rudder linkages. The horns are too long and hit the hull. I fabricated my own from a bit of brass flat stock and a plated wheel collar. Video here.

    Leave a comment:


  • cgbillb
    replied
    Rob
    Yes it is a
    1/48 Arkmodel kit,
    and I have a problem right out of the box, here is a photo of my rudder linkage, not going to work, thinking of designing one like yours. Any ideas.
    Bill
    Not going to work Help

    Leave a comment:


  • The Boattrainman
    replied
    Click image for larger version  Name:	image_37370.jpg Views:	1 Size:	240.5 KB ID:	126503

    I found these pushrod terminators online, handy as I want the screws pointing upwards for convenience.


    Here are the four pushrods without bellows exiting the end cap, top left is to the on/off switch, then left to right, rudder, rear planes and fore planes.

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    The fore plane reverse throw mechanism and the rudder pushrod mechanism.

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    Here's the whole rear section with pushords...............

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    ......looks roomy but it's very tight for access in there.
    Last edited by The Boattrainman; 05-27-2018, 03:50 PM.

    Leave a comment:


  • The Boattrainman
    replied
    Hi Bill,

    Thanks for the kind words, if you root around the forum, there are amazing builds out there, even if it's not the exact sub you are making, the advice is great, and Mr. Merriman is always on hand to steer in the right direction.

    As a matter of interest, what point are you starting out from, I presume it's the 1/48 Arkmodel kit, I hope you're not starting on converting the Robbe one as I did, it's a severe tect of patience!

    Rob

    Leave a comment:


  • cgbillb
    replied
    Rob
    I believe you are wrong, in stating that “The Wolf Pack, a Collection of U Boat Modelling Articles “


    Is sort of a Bible for U-Boat nerds.Your build log is the only Bible any modeler needs, great work
    This will be my bible for my U-92 printing it off now
    Thanks for all the great information
    Bill

    Leave a comment:


  • The Boattrainman
    replied
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    The rear light is pure white, but reflecting off the inside it appears off-white which is great, I don't like pure white on period vessels.


    The hull break is better with lots of sanding and fillets of styrene.

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    Here are two final shots of the end cap and through hull openings, all 13 of them (4 pushrods, 4 tech rack rods, 12v/speaker, piston tank water inlet, aerial extension and 2 prop tubes, I'm looking forward to my next project with just one!

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    All tided up when the rear cover plate is attached, the pushrod exits hade LED bezels as surrounds and the prop shafts have 10mm washers for a neat finish. No one will ever see the inside of the boat, but it's better than looking at the messy end cap!

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    The Boattrainman
    Last edited by The Boattrainman; 05-25-2018, 04:55 PM.

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  • The Boattrainman
    replied
    The wiring can now be tidied up, 12v down the starboard and aerial extension down the port.

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    The rear light can now be sorted, it's a brass etch stuck to the deck.


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    A 2mm LED is inserted through a hole into the unit.

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    A plastic surround is the added and filled with epoxy encasing the wiring and the capacitor that reduces the voltage.

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    The Boattrainman
    Last edited by The Boattrainman; 05-23-2018, 04:43 PM.

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  • The Boattrainman
    replied
    The intermediate shafts are standard 3inch items from Model Bits.

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    As usual they are surrounded by a resin filled outer tube.

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    Both inside and outside the end cap the shafts get collars and 4mm O-rings, lightly compressed to the end of the shaft at both ends. I pressure tested these and once the tubes are filled with grease there are no leaks.
    Last edited by The Boattrainman; 05-23-2018, 04:32 PM.

    Leave a comment:


  • The Boattrainman
    replied
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    I finally got the rear hull attached to the end cap, a combination of plastic pieces as shims and lots of epoxy, the hull break is not too bad but needs work.

    I managed to drive pins through the hull into the raised ridge on the end cap for stability and strenth.

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    The end cap is seated on a series of plastic shims, the gap between them was filled with epoxy and the cap fitted.

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    Now to set the shafts in place.
    Last edited by The Boattrainman; 05-23-2018, 04:45 PM.

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  • The Boattrainman
    replied
    Almost there, here is the end cap, at 1,3,6 and 12 O'clock are the tech rack rods sticking through the end cap with bolts and epoxy surrounds. The three brass tubes in a row are forward and rear dive plane push rod exits and the rudder pushrod exit in the centre. The aluminium tube at the top is for the On/Off switch push rod and the larger brass tube is the water inlet for the piston tank. All that's left is to put prop tubes on the shafts.

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    The inner side of the end cap is a mess, luckily the cover plate will cover all these openings.

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    And when fitted to the rear hull section, it'll be tricky to get to all the parts.

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    The Boattrainman

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  • The Boattrainman
    replied
    The time has come to attach the end bayonet cap to the rear hull, but first there's lots of holes to be drilled in it, horrible job.

    As the end cap has a weird shape, the 15mm plastic tube surrounds to be filled with epoxy are cut to the shape.

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    Here are two examples, one of the four tech rack rods filled with epoxy and the inlet for the on/off switch with additional Bluetac to stop leaks which will picked away when the epoxy is solid.

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    The red cables taking 12v outside the WTC and the white cables for the speaker are soldered to1.5mm pins pushed through the cap

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    The usual plastic surround is made and filled with epoxy.

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    The cables get a surround on the outside as well to be filled with slow curing epoxy, and the brown wire is an external extension to the Receiver aerial.

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    Still holes are needed for the fore and aft dive planes and the two prop shaft tubes, the cap will be like Swiss cheese when finished.

    The Boattrainman

    Leave a comment:

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