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USS Haddock SSN 621 in 1/350, 2,5 CH conversion

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  • USS Haddock SSN 621 in 1/350, 2,5 CH conversion

    Hello lads,
    Last year i made a simple test rig to test the coreless motor magnet and solid coil idea so i took an old 1/350 Los Angeles model hull, survived from a previous motorizing experiment (I was eleven years old..) and used it to mount everything upon it. Did a small 7 blade prop with alu can and turned plastic and took a 4mm x 8 coreless motor to turn it direct drive. Wayyy overpropped, i know... Used a coil from a small rc car and a magnet from a 6mm coreless motor to swing the rudder. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4BHxKpIHt50 It worked so well that i decided to test in water so i sawed the poor LA hull to match short hull Permit class because I realized that I could kitbash a LA sail into a Permit long sail. A small USS Haddock was born! Unfortunately the small motor couldn't push it under the waves, even with 0,5mm from sail top waterline. Now i should mention that the motor is mounted with a slight donward thrust line. So the project was temporary shelved until, a week ago, i found that you can actually add a turbo mode in those small 2 CH TX/RX. All you have to do is to solder a button between GND and turbo mode pin on the TX IC so if you push it , RX gives the whole battery voltage to the motor. Now it merrily disappears beneath the waves in the lenght of a bathtub with turbo button pressed and can maintain depth with normal fwd button So I'm prepping it for a primer shot and adding essential details such as those ears on the sail and various warts and bits. Will rebuild the stern dive planes with soft wire and use a 20 ml syringe as a WTC to retain the piston at the front end assist with fine tuning and water density variations.
    With this RX/TX it's possible to convert almost all 1/350 submarines if one is happy with controlling depth with speed control: RX is just 22mm x 18 mm and comes in three different channels to play together. https://www.banggood.com/Wholesale-3...r_warehouse=CN
    Hull is almost ready to scribe, Riich LA abundant decal sheet as a donor.
    Last edited by zhuravlik; 12-21-2017, 07:18 PM.

  • #2
    You are a maniac. Admittedly, you are a brilliantly innovative and highly skilled maniac - but still a maniac. This is great!

    Comment


    • #3
      Yes Hardrock, I'm a maniac but here i'm in good company! The best forum with the best people, still a tad frustrating for my photos posting issues. Have you seen my 1/350 Shchuka-B conversion? Posted it on RCG at peak of photo issues frustration https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/show...ula-conversion that was mad work and it was debugged lately. And i never shared the saga of my micro video submarines, now coming at the fourth, and i hope deefinitive, iteration. They are based on the usual 3CH non proportional set and Denver AC1300 action cam wich is decent, small and cheap. Also, there is a hope for the shelved Kya project: to rig a centrifugal bilge pump so that it drains the exterior hull from water, once the submarine is brought deck awash by the piston. To dive, simply invert polarity and the piston tank will begin to fill and the reversed bilge pump will flood the exterior hull. Hope that water viscosity and a powerful 6mm drone motor for bilge pump will help. Naturally this coreless motor magnet and solid coil system makes rigging a double rudder for 1/144 VII quite easy!

      PS: Did you know that there is a 1/144 Permit class model made by an ukrainan company named Modelsvit? Hull is almost entirely made in hollow glass fibre with just the stern, tailplanes and sail made in styrene. Ordered it a couple of weeks ago, will report when it arrives.
      Last edited by zhuravlik; 12-14-2017, 09:42 PM. Reason: Add PS

      Comment


      • #4
        I think i went a bit over the board with this... I've recontoured the bow, installed a new coil, installed movable stern planes, made a new micro wtc with a 20 ml syringe wich can hold a 550 mAh lipo, installed those ears on the sail, scribed a couple of details on the deck and done safety rail with copper filament. Just shot some primer: scribings are too deep but clean enough, they will be partially filled by clear coatings.
        I'm very happy with the new wtc: can slide back and forth and with adjustable buoyancy makes finding correct attitude and balance a snap. All i had to do was to guesstimate a foam block dimension, shape and glued it and move a couple of times the front manual piston.

        This flexibility allows me to convert almos all 1/350 nuclears and even the kilo: when there is no space for a magnetic rudder i will use a stern thruster for steering.
        I've picked up Airfix Trafalgar as next project, already found a perfect 5mm coreless motor and done the coil. Probably I will be able to retain the original moving stern and front planes, stay tuned!

        Comment


        • #5
          I understand you have had an issue with the photos. When I look at yours, the pictures are small. Any chance of getting larger ones uploaded?
          If you can cut, drill, saw, hit things and swear a lot, you're well on the way to building a working model sub.

          Comment


          • #6
            Yep, the usual issue...
            Posted the same Photos on Dive in to submarines group on FB:
            https://scontent-mxp1-1.xx.fbcdn.net...59&oe=5AD1B740
            https://scontent-mxp1-1.xx.fbcdn.net...44&oe=5AC43FB0

            Comment


            • #7
              Originally posted by zhuravlik View Post
              Yep, the usual issue...
              Posted the same Photos on Dive in to submarines group on FB:
              https://scontent-mxp1-1.xx.fbcdn.net...59&oe=5AD1B740
              https://scontent-mxp1-1.xx.fbcdn.net...44&oe=5AC43FB0
              Very, very interesting work there. Are you using a peristaltic pump?

              David
              "... well, that takes care of Jorgenson's theory!"

              Comment


              • #8
                Thank you sir! No peristaltic pumps here, sir, just good-ole dynamic diving. But, maybe , you are referring to the thing you can see in the upper right corner: it's Akula's 30 mm wtc, it varies it's volume by moving the fwd bulkhead fore and aft. Below that you can see the new, high capacity 23mm diameter 2,5 ch wtc. Here too the fwd bulkhead (aka trimmed syringe piston) can be moved but manually, to assist in trimming and compensating water variation density wich at this scale is quite important. And below that you can see the first little 2,5 ch wtc wich is 19,7 mm diameter and holds a small 70 mAh battery.
                Now, something cool about those small bang/bang TX/RX sets is that you can easily waterproof TXs and swim with your creations

                Comment


                • #9
                  Click image for larger version  Name:	25440317_10214224367185931_8701487058229666676_o.jpg?oh=81bdec77658eebce68c7fb9d1413d259&oe=5AD1B740.jpg Views:	1 Size:	70.6 KB ID:	124387

                  Click image for larger version  Name:	25438991_10214224367945950_698655532838705243_o.jpg?oh=8a1d13740185be9875bd3ed7777f0f44&oe=5AC43FB0.jpg Views:	1 Size:	53.8 KB ID:	124388



                  Copied address from other site and uploaded full size.
                  Click image for larger version

Name:	Capture.JPG
Views:	1
Size:	83.7 KB
ID:	124390


                  Not my work .
                  Last edited by Scott T; 12-18-2017, 10:00 PM.

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Originally posted by zhuravlik View Post
                    Thank you sir! No peristaltic pumps here, sir, just good-ole dynamic diving. But, maybe , you are referring to the thing you can see in the upper right corner: it's Akula's 30 mm wtc, it varies it's volume by moving the fwd bulkhead fore and aft. Below that you can see the new, high capacity 23mm diameter 2,5 ch wtc. Here too the fwd bulkhead (aka trimmed syringe piston) can be moved but manually, to assist in trimming and compensating water variation density wich at this scale is quite important. And below that you can see the first little 2,5 ch wtc wich is 19,7 mm diameter and holds a small 70 mAh battery.
                    Now, something cool about those small bang/bang TX/RX sets is that you can easily waterproof TXs and swim with your creations
                    Here are some of my efforts in the 'small' r/c submarine category. All WTC's are of 1.25" diameter!



















                    Some video of the little SKIPJACK:

                    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4Vk3n3qXOso&t=54s

                    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NXnW9Vheorg

                    And a quick look at how the static diving SubDriver looks:

                    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Lu6x3vI2Yek&t=33s

                    Currently I'm back to work on perfecting the small, static diving type SubDriver .... Hang in there William!



                    David
                    "... well, that takes care of Jorgenson's theory!"

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Tell me more about your Lego setup. I am curious about your windings and what you are doing.
                      If you can cut, drill, saw, hit things and swear a lot, you're well on the way to building a working model sub.

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        Tom, i've been using this Lego setup since ages winding coils for my micro planes. It's really just a geared down motor and battery to wind coils. I i made two spools, one for hollow coils (3mm ID) and the other one for solid coils. https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/show...go-coil-winder Source of enamelled copper are wall watches, you want your coils to have about 100ohm impedance. If you are interested in magnetic actuators, and i think you should, just look on Scratchbuilt Indoor and Micro Models forum on RCG, very informative write-ups here!

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          Dave, are you fishing for compliments? :) I know every friggin detail of your works!! Every photo of your works is downloaded and stored while i'm giggling.

                          Here it is, finished with Tamiya flat clear and just sail numbers from Riich Los Angeles abundant decal sheet. Spinner was turned down to a more pointy look and prop was painted with X-32 titanium silver. Hull was painted with a mix of flat black, XF-17 sea blue and XF-19 sky grey while flat black was used for anti-skid walkway. I will probably add some details and some weathering but at the moment I'm satisfied. I like to add weathering as i use the boat. :)

                          https://scontent-mxp1-1.xx.fbcdn.net...f8&oe=5AB759CC
                          https://scontent-mxp1-1.xx.fbcdn.net...e4&oe=5AB68275

                          Thank you Scott, for the photo relay service!

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            Originally posted by zhuravlik View Post
                            Dave, are you fishing for compliments? :) I know every friggin detail of your works!! Every photo of your works is downloaded and stored while i'm giggling.

                            Here it is, finished with Tamiya flat clear and just sail numbers from Riich Los Angeles abundant decal sheet. Spinner was turned down to a more pointy look and prop was painted with X-32 titanium silver. Hull was painted with a mix of flat black, XF-17 sea blue and XF-19 sky grey while flat black was used for anti-skid walkway. I will probably add some details and some weathering but at the moment I'm satisfied. I like to add weathering as i use the boat. :)

                            https://scontent-mxp1-1.xx.fbcdn.net...f8&oe=5AB759CC
                            https://scontent-mxp1-1.xx.fbcdn.net...e4&oe=5AB68275

                            Thank you Scott, for the photo relay service!
                            Sorry, I tend to play on the over-kill side of information sharing -- don't mean to be pushy.

                            That little THRESHER of yours looks good. Let's see shots of the marked up and weathered item.

                            David
                            "... well, that takes care of Jorgenson's theory!"

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              David,
                              your information sharing attitude is remarkable indeed: " repetita juvant" they used to say!
                              I didn't wanted to use all the decals of the Riich LA decal sheet, only sail and hull numbers were surplus. That kit is really well printed and not particulary cheap.
                              About weathering, i usually add it after first meaningful and successful sea trials. i usually add some details during overhauls too: Pietro Calvi got her limber holes opened during the second overhaul. After all, a model is never finished. Here in Milan we are masters at keepin working to monuments for centuries: the Duomo's factory is still very busy!
                              Last edited by zhuravlik; 12-19-2017, 07:13 PM.

                              Comment

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