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Moebius Skipjack

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  • Moebius Skipjack

    Time to start the Skipjack I've had sitting around. Going to follow Tom's build thread and the Cabal report. Before I start anything, going to read through the Cabal report and first few pages of Tom's build so I don't overlook anything. I'm not going to post play-by-play photos, just once in a while pics or if I have a problem at some point.

    Tom's build thread: https://forum.sub-driver.com/forum/b...skipjack-build
    Cabal report: http://support.caswellplating.com/in...l-instructions
    Last edited by Ken_NJ; 02-28-2018, 11:31 PM.

  • #2
    Stop trying to link to outside hosting! Upload those pictures directly so that if imageshack decides to stick it to its members all the photos will not disappear. There is a paper with a clip on it on the bar above where you type (next to the A and smily face). Click on that upload file select large or original and you are off to the races.

    For anyone that is not familiar with Ken, grab a lawn chair and a drink of your choice and get ready for a ride.

    Ken you may want to look through Mark's build he did an excellent job on his. https://forum.sub-driver.com/forum/b...-skipjack-1-72
    Last edited by trout; 02-13-2018, 06:53 PM.
    If you can cut, drill, saw, hit things and swear a lot, you're well on the way to building a working model sub.

    Comment


    • #3
      Ken,

      With ImageShack chose 'forums' in the link type block. Then copy and post that link to the body of your post, Ken.

      Go ahead and test here. We'll get you through this (PhotoBucket SUCKS! ... outrageous price for service).

      David
      "... well, that takes care of Jorgenson's theory!"

      Comment


      • #4
        Thanks guys. I did something to get it working. It's always asking for a URL since I already had a picture linked, could not delete that last one. I see the 'forums' David, will see what happens next time, or upload the pic like Tom said. BTW Tom, thanks for the complement, not sure if I can top the Marlin on the SJ, but will see.

        Comment


        • #5
          Some video to wet your appetite, Ken:

          https://youtu.be/7aaAVtlnbVM
          "... well, that takes care of Jorgenson's theory!"

          Comment


          • #6
            I'll get there soon enough!

            What can I do about this natural gap in the two stern sections? It takes the force of rubber bands to bring the two sections together. This will be a problem later on. Starboard side is 3/16, port side is 3/32. Majority of the warp is in the upper deck section.

            I clicked the Upload Attachments button and did not choose a size. I can't add these inline?
            Attached Files
            Last edited by Ken_NJ; 02-14-2018, 12:21 AM.

            Comment


            • #7
              Originally posted by Ken_NJ View Post
              I'll get there soon enough!

              What can I do about this natural gap in the two stern sections? It takes the force of rubber bands to bring the two sections together. This will be a problem later on. Starboard side is 3/16, port side is 3/32. Majority of the warp is in the upper deck section.

              I clicked the Upload Attachments button and did not choose a size. I can't add these inline?
              I used a heat-gun to VERY CAREFULLY heat each half and then block it to size before the work cooled. Worked, but you need to be very, very, very, careful not to exceed the melting temperature of the polystyrene. But, as a practical matter -- don't sweat the warp! It will go away as you assemble the hull.

              Use ImageShack for your pictures here -- works better.

              When in the 'links' section go to the 'size' block and select, 800X600 and you're good to go.

              David
              "... well, that takes care of Jorgenson's theory!"

              Comment


              • #8
                Yea thought so on the heat gun. Most of the warp is between the halfway part of the hull (the locator pins on the inside of the hull) up to the dive planes, on both the top and bottom sections. I placed a wedge as you see in the picture, heated the inside keeping the heat gun moving, then heated the outside, placed on the workbench and applied pressure with a slight reverse bend due to the wedge. Let cool. Got the starboard side down to 3/32 and the port side just under a 1/16 so far. Time consuming this is.

                These images are from Imageshack as you said. Let's see how this works. Yea!! That did it right! Thanks David!




                Last edited by Ken_NJ; 02-15-2018, 08:14 PM.

                Comment


                • #9
                  Good job, pal. Slow and easy wins this race.

                  David
                  "... well, that takes care of Jorgenson's theory!"

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Trying to get an idea what I need in the way of electronics. In the Marlin I have NiMH batteries with a Viper 10 and ADF2. Since all of these were bought years ago things may have changed. So what do I need in the way of ESC, pitch control and whatever else? And what size servos are needed in the 3.5 inch SD?
                    Last edited by Ken_NJ; 02-20-2018, 03:44 PM.

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Originally posted by Ken_NJ View Post
                      Trying to get an idea what I need in the way of electronics. In the Marlin I have NiMH batteries with a Viper 10 and ADF2. Since all of these were bought years ago things may have changed. So what do I need in the way of ESC, pitch control and whatever else? And what size servos are needed in the 3.5 inch SD?
                      The MTroniks 15 Ampere, brushed, marine ESC will do it. And these items:





                      This SD will employ any cheap 'mini' sized servo, such as here:



                      And the assembled SD will look like this:







                      And spring for Kevin McLeod's excellent little magnetic switch. A must have. Get all this good stuff from Nautilus Drydocks, https://www.rc-submarine.com/shop

                      Some detail shots on how to hook up the magnetic switch:









                      David
                      "... well, that takes care of Jorgenson's theory!"

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        My shopping list, anything missing? I guess the ADF2 is no longer available?

                        Viper 15 ESC: https://www.rc-submarine.com/product...eed-controller
                        ADF2: Looks like the failsafe has been removed and now its AD2, https://www.rc-submarine.com/product...tch-controller
                        4 Mini servos: https://www.rc-submarine.com/product-page/mini-servo (Description says Mini, but the item pictures says Micro on it)
                        Mission switch: https://www.rc-submarine.com/product...ion-switch-10a OR THIS https://www.rc-submarine.com/product...-on-off-switch
                        Lipo 3s batteries: 3200 mah or better
                        Y lead: I have my own DIY one
                        WTC: https://www.rc-submarine.com/product...r-single-shaft


                        The Viper 15 ESC has a 1.2 amp BEC.

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          Originally posted by Ken_NJ View Post
                          My shopping list, anything missing? I guess the ADF2 is no longer available?

                          Viper 15 ESC: https://www.rc-submarine.com/product...eed-controller
                          ADF2: Looks like the failsafe has been removed and now its AD2, https://www.rc-submarine.com/product...tch-controller
                          4 Mini servos: https://www.rc-submarine.com/product-page/mini-servo (Description says Mini, but the item pictures says Micro on it)
                          Mission switch: https://www.rc-submarine.com/product...ion-switch-10a OR THIS https://www.rc-submarine.com/product...-on-off-switch
                          Lipo 3s batteries: 3200 mah or better
                          Y lead: I have my own DIY one
                          WTC: https://www.rc-submarine.com/product...r-single-shaft


                          The Viper 15 ESC has a 1.2 amp BEC.
                          The new ADF does not have a fail-safe. That is taken care of by the new battery link monitor (BLM). it not only does fail-safe service, but also monitors r/c link drop-outs, and can be programmed to monitor the battery condition. So, you need a BLM. A must have.



                          I'm taking care of your WTC. You want to equip it with mini-sized servos, three of 'em. I love your Y-lead substitute -- a real space saver. You want to add a more capable BEC too, something that can output at least 3mAhr at 4.8/5-volts.

                          Go for the magnetically actuated mission switch -- I'm using them now and wonder how I ever got along without them:





                          Get hot! Groton's only a few short months away, pal.

                          David
                          The Horrible

                          "... well, that takes care of Jorgenson's theory!"

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            Thanks David. Revised list...

                            Viper 15 ESC: https://www.rc-submarine.com/product...eed-controller
                            AD2: https://www.rc-submarine.com/product...tch-controller
                            BLM: https://www.rc-submarine.com/product...y-link-monitor
                            Mini servos: https://www.rc-submarine.com/product-page/mini-servo (Description says Mini, but the item pictures says Micro on it)
                            Mission switch: https://www.rc-submarine.com/product...ion-switch-10a
                            Lipo 3s batteries: 3200 mah or better
                            Y lead: I have my own DIY one
                            BEC: looking

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              Originally posted by Ken_NJ View Post
                              Thanks David. Revised list...

                              Viper 15 ESC: https://www.rc-submarine.com/product...eed-controller
                              AD2: https://www.rc-submarine.com/product...tch-controller
                              BLM: https://www.rc-submarine.com/product...y-link-monitor
                              Mini servos: https://www.rc-submarine.com/product-page/mini-servo (Description says Mini, but the item pictures says Micro on it)
                              Mission switch: https://www.rc-submarine.com/product...ion-switch-10a
                              Lipo 3s batteries: 3200 mah or better
                              Y lead: I have my own DIY one
                              BEC: looking
                              Here's a BEC for you, Ken:

                              https://www.amainhobbies.com/western...l-hbec/p193518



                              David
                              "... well, that takes care of Jorgenson's theory!"

                              Comment

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