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revell VIIc

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  • revell VIIc

    hello my name is shane. new here but have been in and out for awhile. after looking at the vIIc boats others have built i convinced my wife to let me start one (she quotes back to my 1st r/c boat i had to swim for haha) got the hull and want opinions of if i need more limbering holes opened up in the lower hull. also does caswell still have the ballest weights and foam kits available i didn;t see them listed. are you going to make more.... want to leave my options open for working torpedo tubes so i hve 2 questions

    1 does anyone know if there is room for a working stern torpedo tube? if so i want to leave the stern tube blank below the d&E fittings kit rudder block in prep for that...

    2 i see in the propeller shaft cabal the are useing a 1/8 id brass tube for the stuffing box.should this go through the propeller strut body? i will have to get some as there wasn't any in the fittings from caswell but i have some from my other boat projects...

    3 this is a long term build and i want to leave my options open so i havent joined the hulls togeter yet(working on the rear hydroplanes now)are there any mods i need to do to the ft torpedo blank to accept 2 working tubes later(i think 4 wouls be too crowded for service/repair so 2 in ft and 1 rear if possable not shure if the rear is possable due to clearence of propshafts and sd.. and yes i know build the boat 1st the the frills but i like to build my mods and options in before.plus i assume if after you build it the added weight of tubes and gear will cause the boat to need to be retrimmed and needing to add more foam i would rather add the aproxame wt in tapeweights and trim it and remove weights then try to figure out where to stuff more foam away from linkages.. i welcome all input as this is my 1st sub.. p.s. i don't quit it took 2 yrs to make my 1st boat right from building the hull to problem free sailing..and hand cutting and laminating wood strip on a fishing boat was a chore.. thanks to all.. i realize the oldtimers here are used to the 1/2ers they get 1/2 through and quit, see it myself from customers who want to save a buck on their cadillac and have it towed in with milkcrates attached.. so give me a chance please thank you shane
    Attached Files

  • #2
    I wanted to post something because you have some great questions and I do not want you to think you are ignored. I have not built the Type VII yet...... I see you read the cabal reports, did you search the forum? We are in the process of gathering information to help with people that are assembling subs and your questions are very helpful. I have not see torpedoes put in the aft of the type VII, but David would know more on that. The propellor shaft, I have no information on, but I will look. Hopefully someone more experienced on the type VII will chime in.
    Peace,
    Tom
    If you can cut, drill, saw, hit things and swear a lot, you're well on the way to building a working model sub.

    Comment


    • #3
      thank you for your response.. in pouring over all the old and new caballs i see in the new one where the fittings kit drive bulkhead are installed.. there is only the 1/8 rod going straight to the propeller strut body but the older one shows brass tube.. i think i'm going that direction as the 1/8 rod looks funny in the big hole for the propeller shaft out hull pods to the strut body. plus i don't think it should be that much drag if done right.. the 1st cabal i looked at that showed the brass rod didn't have the tip on glueing the propeller nose cone to the shaft then installing propeller then slideing it up the strut body into the hull for assy.. off to the hobbie shop at lunch for brass tube... and some filler. the output shaft fareings had a poor fit and large gap at the forward end of the pod:( but nothing a little filler wont cure.. waiting for god to say anything about tube mods before putting the hull together and still have some hand sand/grinding with a dremel sanding drum in the stern plane area dry fitting to do yet.. many thanks for your replie tom...p.s. i took the evening of to go runn the target ship at the lake for an hr or so .. was fun and problem free:)

      Comment


      • #4
        The propeller shaft is 3/32"

        David
        "... well, that takes care of Jorgenson's theory!"

        Comment


        • #5
          tanks dave got my tubeing start dry fitting tonight.. now how bout the torps question? can you do an aft tube and any mods needed to the bow nest that make a later planned retofit easyer?...for record only planing 1-3 tubes only 2 if stern not possable..

          Comment


          • #6
            Yes. I took care when designing the rudder foundation to leave a channel that will accommodate a stern tube. The SD and other components that make up the fittings kit were designed to permit installation of a full four-tube forward nest and the single launcher back aft.

            I'm working with Kerry Addington to build up demonstration 1/72 Type-7's, in parallel with one another, to show how to put teeth into these little U-boats. Stay tuned.

            David
            "... well, that takes care of Jorgenson's theory!"

            Comment


            • #7
              so made some progress.havent bored out the shaft ferring cones yet thats next.. so i will plan on leaving out the torp tube blank when i put in the rudder block.. man dave i wish the fittings kit had a propeller strut assy as it seems a little flexy and was some scary monsters while slow hand boreing out to fit.. had visions of it snapping aahhahhaggggg but it didn't.. toying around with makeing on out of brass but am nowhere near your caliber and only have at hand my toolbox from work at a caddy store and autoshop stuff.. most of it too large for delicate work.... also landed a side job so am moving alot closer to the price of a sd yea!!!!!!!!!!propeller shaft install almost compleate herr kaleun


              also if needed i can post pics of full hull cuz i need to know from you guys do i need more flooding holes or do i have enough? i saw in 1 of the cabals someone mentioned slotting the keel area.i would perfer not to but will if i have too and you think i need it...


              WILL THE BALLEST WEIGHT AND FOAM KIT RETURN?



              also do i need to put guide holes in the ft torpedo block in preperation for 2 tubes? if so what size hole do i need or is opening up the existing hole for the tubes ok for now? also i was planning on adding the aprxomate weight of the torpdo launchers for trimming when i get that far so that when i install them i won't have that much difference to play with what do you think of this plan as in my surface boats i found it easyer to remove weight after all componants were installed than add after and try to work around stuff later...many thanks to all

              shane
              Attached Files
              Last edited by satlite440; 07-31-2012, 03:07 AM. Reason: adding

              Comment


              • #8
                Looking good Shane... keep up the posts.

                Prop Struts....

                With mine I plan to just bush the strut so the prop shaft exits hull and re-enters the strut. The thinner prop shaft I think it may make it look more scale like in my opinion.

                Comment


                • #9
                  dry fit

                  ok so figued out the rear hyroplanes and bellcrank assy only one mess up aggaggghhhh but nothing a styrene filler pach shouldnt fix...now I AM WAITING ON A RESPONSE FROM GOD. i need to know do i have enough flooding holes????or do i need to slot the keel in between the weight areas?any mods needed to the ft torpedo block to take working tubes later like drilling them out? AND GOD IF YOUR LISTENING???is the weight and foam set going to make a return to the caswell sight or am i going to have to fab it?if so im good with that, but the saddle foam might be a challenge. gotta do some more research on the foam ALSO what size are the pins inthe planes&rudders? gotta remeber to bring my calipers home from the shop maby i'll remeber tomarrow.. but once i figure out the foam and if i need to cut more flooding holes i can join the hulls and install the driveshaft bulkhead.. also WHAT did you use to glue the prop cones to the shaft?? i liked this idea
                  It is advisable to assemble the propeller and dunce cap by gluing the dunce
                  cap onto the shaft and sliding the prop up to it and securing the set-(grub) screw.

                  is there an epoxy you recomend for glueing the duncecap to the shaft?havent had used anything other than jb cold weld for metals and that would be a problem as i plan to upgrade to the brass ones on the caswell page later after the projects further along... also any one got any other recomendations or things you regreted not doing while the hulls were split? many thanks shane...... and yes i'm the troll with the boat hahahahaha...
                  Attached Files

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    I owe you a detailed response. I'll get to that tonight. Thanks for being patient with me.

                    David
                    "... well, that takes care of Jorgenson's theory!"

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Shane this is a nice thread you have going here, being a possible Type VII builder someday I'm sure your querries here will be a great help to me and others. But I'm having a hard time understanding your post. Can you please refrain from using abbreviations, words like "assy" instead of assembly conotes a different thing in mind :-).

                      Also, please try to use a spell checker.

                      Thanks.
                      Make it simple, make strong, make it work!

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        thank you david... i eagerly await with baited breath.....and yes i need to lean spell cker but i have issues with complex tinkertoys like that give me something simple like a 6l80 transmission with a few codes and default gears thats easy hahahaha guess i will have to get better as our dealership is moveing to paperless repair orders and i will have to learn to type and spell not hunt and peck.side i ilke simple puzzles like this....shane
                        Attached Files
                        Last edited by satlite440; 08-02-2012, 12:07 PM.

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          is the axproxomate keel weight around 8 0z correct???????gotta melt some tire weights
                          Last edited by satlite440; 08-03-2012, 11:55 AM.

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            I am enjoying your build was well! Look forward to how you handle the build and the hurdles thrown at you. Eat more spinach! agghahgahhahgag!
                            Peace,
                            Tom
                            If you can cut, drill, saw, hit things and swear a lot, you're well on the way to building a working model sub.

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              Originally posted by He Who Shall Not Be Named View Post
                              I owe you a detailed response. I'll get to that tonight. Thanks for being patient with me.

                              David



                              still waiting have lots of patientce got 4 kids 2 girls 2 boys 18,13,10,7 agghahgahhahgaggoing to get some sheet styrene this weekend and do some prep for fabbing the keel weights gotta get a plaster of paris handprint kit at the craft store...also some brass wire/tube as my wintersgarden railing didn't survive shipping....

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