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Building a prop for the 1/60th Scale Walrus

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  • #16
    Thank you for your help! I just noticed I did not put the updated image up. Shortly I will do that.
    If you can cut, drill, saw, hit things and swear a lot, you're well on the way to building a working model sub.

    Comment


    • #17
      Click image for larger version

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      This is the corrected and complete plan.
      Peace,
      Tom
      If you can cut, drill, saw, hit things and swear a lot, you're well on the way to building a working model sub.

      Comment


      • #18
        Originally posted by trout View Post
        Click image for larger version

Name:	Walrus_Prop_worksheet 01.jpg
Views:	1
Size:	386.3 KB
ID:	119986


        This is the corrected and complete plan.
        Peace,
        Tom
        OK, with the radius points identified on the graph, you can determine the true cord at each radius point. Take a compass (divider) to a radius point (concentric circle) and measure the apparent (projected) cord of the blade at that point. Lay that measurement onto the X-line under the radius point and make a box, connecting the right and left sides of the box to the pitch-line.





        This defines the actual (developed) cord of the blade at that radius point. You use this to define the profile of the blade which is marked atop the blade blank you're going to carve out.



        David
        "... well, that takes care of Jorgenson's theory!"

        Comment


        • #19
          You willing to sell me a chunk of Renshape? I cannot see myself buying a large sheet of it. I do have some pale colored reshape (I bought from Mike), not sure if it is good for this. Thoughts?
          If you can cut, drill, saw, hit things and swear a lot, you're well on the way to building a working model sub.

          Comment


          • #20



            Originally posted by trout View Post
            You willing to sell me a chunk of Renshape? I cannot see myself buying a large sheet of it. I do have some pale colored reshape (I bought from Mike), not sure if it is good for this. Thoughts?
            Click image for larger version  Name:	002.JPG Views:	1 Size:	17.4 KB ID:	120004



            Pale, as in vanilla-white? That's likely the porous 20lb. stuff. You want the dense 40lb. RenShape (the stuff in my hand).

            $1,000.00 for a hunk of the dense RenShape should do it. I'll fix you up. E-mail me your current address. RenShape is to model-builders what U235 is to bomb-makers.

            David
            Last edited by He Who Shall Not Be Named; 02-18-2017, 12:50 PM.
            "... well, that takes care of Jorgenson's theory!"

            Comment


            • #21
              Thank you! I received the box with RenShape scraps. I can do this. I am studying your photos.
              If you can cut, drill, saw, hit things and swear a lot, you're well on the way to building a working model sub.

              Comment


              • #22
                Originally posted by trout View Post
                Thank you! I received the box with RenShape scraps. I can do this. I am studying your photos.
                Go get 'em, Tiger!

                Keep us informed as to progress.

                David
                "... well, that takes care of Jorgenson's theory!"

                Comment


                • #23
                  Seems like Renshape is as rare as rocking horse ****. Can't get it down here.

                  Comment


                  • #24
                    http://www.kirkside.com.au/L94/tooling-boards/

                    quote
                    Our workshop has always called it ‘plastic wood’, and in Australia at least, many suppliers seem to know it by this name. Here it is a pink colour, comes as “boards” up to several tens of mm thick, is very heavy in the lager sizes, and frightfully expensive. But for SO many things it is absolutely invaluable!
                    Unquote

                    Maybe this helps
                    Grtz,
                    Bart
                    Practical wisdom is only to be learned in the school of experience.
                    "Samuel Smiles"

                    Comment


                    • #25
                      Originally posted by bwi 971 View Post
                      http://www.kirkside.com.au/L94/tooling-boards/

                      quote
                      Our workshop has always called it ‘plastic wood’, and in Australia at least, many suppliers seem to know it by this name. Here it is a pink colour, comes as “boards” up to several tens of mm thick, is very heavy in the lager sizes, and frightfully expensive. But for SO many things it is absolutely invaluable!
                      Unquote

                      Maybe this helps
                      Grtz,
                      Bart
                      That's the stuff. The important property with this stuff is its density. You want stuff that is 40 lbs. per cubic-foot or heavier.

                      David
                      "... well, that takes care of Jorgenson's theory!"

                      Comment


                      • #26
                        Originally posted by He Who Shall Not Be Named View Post
                        OK, with the radius points identified on the graph, you can determine the true cord at each radius point. Take a compass (divider) to a radius point (concentric circle) and measure the apparent (projected) cord of the blade at that point. Lay that measurement onto the X-line under the radius point and make a box, connecting the right and left sides of the box to the pitch-line.

                        This defines the actual (developed) cord of the blade at that radius point. You use this to define the profile of the blade which is marked atop the blade blank you're going to carve out.
                        I need a crayon drawing and some definitions. I have re-read this and I sort of get it. Does the center axis of a blade remain the same and it is just a twist along the axis? I am not sure I completely understand the markings of the block you are about to carve.
                        Cord is angle, I am assuming.

                        If you can cut, drill, saw, hit things and swear a lot, you're well on the way to building a working model sub.

                        Comment


                        • #27
                          Originally posted by trout View Post
                          I need a crayon drawing and some definitions. I have re-read this and I sort of get it. Does the center axis of a blade remain the same and it is just a twist along the axis? I am not sure I completely understand the markings of the block you are about to carve.
                          Cord is angle, I am assuming.
                          The center of the disc has the blade angle along the main axis of the propeller shaft -- zero angle. Or, an angle perpendicular to the plane of the disc.

                          Cord is the length of the foil at any specified radius point along the span of the blade. Span is perpendicular to the mean blade span.

                          David
                          "... well, that takes care of Jorgenson's theory!"

                          Comment


                          • #28
                            I did this just to watch the veins in your temple bulge out:
                            Click image for larger version

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                            Yes, it is a 3D printed prop.

                            Moving on to our topic at hand.
                            I am going to need the "short bus" instructions or the simple step by step. I have a chunk of foam. I draw the shape of the blade on it. The thickness is estimated by the maximum the hub will hold or is there a better way?


                            If you can cut, drill, saw, hit things and swear a lot, you're well on the way to building a working model sub.

                            Comment


                            • #29
                              Refer to my first post -- it shows how to lay-out the propeller blade blank.

                              (just bumped you one spot below Bart on my official 'hate' list).

                              David
                              "... well, that takes care of Jorgenson's theory!"

                              Comment


                              • #30
                                Does that mean you hate him more or less?

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