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Mounting servos in the Forward compartment of the Sub Driver

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  • Mounting servos in the Forward compartment of the Sub Driver

    Hi guys,

    I am about to order 2 new Subdrivers in kit form and I am planning a new layout for the internals of two subs that I'll be putting together in the coming months.

    I was wondering if anyone has any experience with mounting servos in the forward / battery section of the Subdriver?

    To me, there seems to be a lot of spare space up front, whilst it is fairly cramped by comparison aft. The rate limiter I see is how much cable bunching has to flow aft to the RX through the conduit and of course you'll need some sort of extension / removable connection to the RX so that when you service or remove the rear end cap your disconnecting the front servos.

    Please feel free to jump in and discuss, even if you haven't tried it. Now doubt some other Subdriver owners might have thought about doing the same.

    Cheers

    John
    Last edited by Slats; 05-07-2016, 06:23 AM. Reason: spelling
    John Slater

    Sydney Australia

    You would not steal a wallet so don't steal people's livelihood.
    Think of that before your buy "cheap" pirated goods or download others work protected by copyright. Theft is theft.



    sigpic

  • #2
    John, i've done that with the SD type XXIII, used the servo mounts of another SD, placed a extra conduit tube to solve the cable space problem.<br />
    <br />
    <br />
    Manfred
    Fertig zum unterwasser.

    Comment


    • #3
      Thanks Manfred - I was thinking of possible a second conduit, but as you would know David has done a superb job with O'rings surrounding the conduit - so I was wondering how you installed the extra conduit and if you managed some sort of an O'ring seal?
      Also could you please post some pictures too.

      Many thanks

      John
      John Slater

      Sydney Australia

      You would not steal a wallet so don't steal people's livelihood.
      Think of that before your buy "cheap" pirated goods or download others work protected by copyright. Theft is theft.



      sigpic

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      • #4
        I kept it simple by using 2k epoxy glue on both the inside and outside, i will digg into the archives for pictures.<br />
        <br />
        Manfred.
        Fertig zum unterwasser.

        Comment


        • #5
          Thanks Manfred
          appreciate it.
          Cheers
          John
          John Slater

          Sydney Australia

          You would not steal a wallet so don't steal people's livelihood.
          Think of that before your buy "cheap" pirated goods or download others work protected by copyright. Theft is theft.



          sigpic

          Comment


          • #6
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            John, here you can see my modified SD, the smaller conduit tube is the standard one, the bigger i've added, had to take the SD apart, stacked both bulkhead and used a drill press to get me the holes, to get a watertight connection i used epoxyglue on the inside of the ballasttank and also in the dry space of the SD, left the standard conduit tube as it was.

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            This is how i fastened the front servo's, used a old bracket from another SD and rebuilded it to house the three new servo's, pretty straithforward tooling, used a 5 pins connector(male/female) to keep this part removevable, in this configuration you only need 5 wires through the conduit tube, plus and minus are shared, only three seperate signalwires for the servo's, works like a charm.


            Manfred.
            Fertig zum unterwasser.

            Comment


            • #7
              Thanks Manfred - like it alot. Appreciate the photos too.
              John
              John Slater

              Sydney Australia

              You would not steal a wallet so don't steal people's livelihood.
              Think of that before your buy "cheap" pirated goods or download others work protected by copyright. Theft is theft.



              sigpic

              Comment


              • #8
                John, you can also use an RTV rubber to seal the tube as well. I did that on the Gato when there was a leak. The nice thing about it is the gasket RTV I used can allow you to disassemble if you need to.
                If you can cut, drill, saw, hit things and swear a lot, you're well on the way to building a working model sub.

                Comment


                • #9
                  Thanks great tip. Was thinking of that.

                  My next build is another Otw Trafalgar class. I'm doing Truimph. Have done Trenchant previously. I'm not sure about her SD layout so I'll do the boat first fit the torp tubes and mechanism and then look to what works best. Im just relieved that you can buy the SD in kit form..was worried the only kits on sale were the ones without ballast tanks which is thankfully not the case.

                  Cheers John
                  John Slater

                  Sydney Australia

                  You would not steal a wallet so don't steal people's livelihood.
                  Think of that before your buy "cheap" pirated goods or download others work protected by copyright. Theft is theft.



                  sigpic

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Originally posted by Slats View Post
                    Hi guys,

                    I am about to order 2 new Subdrivers in kit form and I am planning a new layout for the internals of two subs that I'll be putting together in the coming months.

                    I was wondering if anyone has any experience with mounting servos in the forward / battery section of the Subdriver?

                    To me, there seems to be a lot of spare space up front, whilst it is fairly cramped by comparison aft. The rate limiter I see is how much cable bunching has to flow aft to the RX through the conduit and of course you'll need some sort of extension / removable connection to the RX so that when you service or remove the rear end cap your disconnecting the front servos.

                    Please feel free to jump in and discuss, even if you haven't tried it. Now doubt some other Subdriver owners might have thought about doing the same.

                    Cheers

                    John
                    Two Subdrivers? Nice to hear you are still keeping yourself busy with upcoming submarine projects. I enjoy very much hearing about your projects John
                    IT TAKES GREAT INTELLIGENCE TO FAKE SUCH STUPIDITY!

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Originally posted by greenman407 View Post
                      Two Subdrivers? Nice to hear you are still keeping yourself busy with upcoming submarine projects. I enjoy very much hearing about your projects John
                      One has been ordered for now - will get another one in Spring (here). Yes still keep my eye in the game. Very busy at Grad School and working in my new role. The best thing that has happened hobby wise is my son (7) is all over the innards of the SDs I have here. The SD coming in spring will be going into his very first submarine. Its wonderful having him take an interest.


                      John Slater

                      Sydney Australia

                      You would not steal a wallet so don't steal people's livelihood.
                      Think of that before your buy "cheap" pirated goods or download others work protected by copyright. Theft is theft.



                      sigpic

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        That's really Great John. My two boys couldn't have cared less about RC. Their world was all about Pokemon, Digimon and skateboards
                        IT TAKES GREAT INTELLIGENCE TO FAKE SUCH STUPIDITY!

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                        • #13
                          Hi John,

                          I had the same problem. Here is an extract of my WIP.

                          Grtz,
                          Bart

                          The only solution was to install a conduit tube with a larger diameter.
                          So I lined up all the issues that I would come across:
                          • Existing seals would not fit anymore
                          • I have to enlarge the holes in the bulkheads and drill holes off center from the existing holes, the servo to blow the ballast tank is to close.
                          • I have to dismantle the SD, without breaking anything
                          • Make a new conduit tube with a 8mm bore, without adding to much weight
                          • Provide a new sealing arrangement
                          • A larger conduit tube meant less ballast tank capacity resulting in an above waterline structure displacement that will be less.
                          I made a new crossover out of aluminum, started with an outside diameter of 10mm, and drilled a 8mm hole in it.
                          Turned it down to an outside diameter of 9,5 mm. A hole of 9.5mm was drilled in both bulkheads eccentric from the existing ones.
                          Next the new bores were partly drilled out to 12mm so they would take the new O-ring.
                          Everything turned out well to my relief. Everything was re-assembled The water tightness was tested without remark.


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                          Practical wisdom is only to be learned in the school of experience.
                          "Samuel Smiles"

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                          • #14
                            Well done, Bart!

                            M
                            "... well, that takes care of Jorgenson's theory!"

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                            • #15
                              Neat work, is that a 2.5" Cylinder?
                              Next time someone points out it takes 42 muscles to frown, point out it will only take 4 muscles to b1tch slap them if they tell you how mnay muscles you need to smile:pop

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