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1:200 Nichimo Yamato is in my hands...

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  • 1:200 Nichimo Yamato is in my hands...

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    It's been sitting under my father's bed since 1987. Original price on it with shipping was $107.45.

  • #2
    Buellman, that looks like the one I built way back in 1976. I really enjoyed it. Dont ask me where it is or what happened to it. I cant remember
    IT TAKES GREAT INTELLIGENCE TO FAKE SUCH STUPIDITY!

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    • #3
      Wow, it's a pretty substantial model to lose, lol.
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      This one is about 51 inches long.

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      • #4
        Wow, it's a pretty substantial model to lose, lol.
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        This one is about 51 inches long.

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        • #5
          I don't know why that posted twice, but.. I also inherited this 1/350 Tirpitz.
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          • #6
            I have the 1/250 AOSHIMA MUSASHI. Sailing with her at the pond for more tan 10 years, and it's always a beauty. Her bulbous bow desing is something really adavanced for her time, and make her sail really good.

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            • #7
              Correction: It's not from AOSHIMA, but from ARII. In that momento I have no budget for purchasing the NICHIMO one. It was my first radio controlled model after considering a fleet of 1/350 battleships from TAMIYA or ACADEMY. But, again, have no Budget enough for a copule of radios. It would have been a nice view at the pond.

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              • #8
                As I look into building this model, the first obstacle I come across, is how to remove the dried rubber bands that have melted to the decks. Has anyone encountered this and have a solution to remove them without damaging details?

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                • #9
                  Originally posted by Buellman1 View Post
                  As I look into building this model, the first obstacle I come across, is how to remove the dried rubber bands that have melted to the decks. Has anyone encountered this and have a solution to remove them without damaging details?
                  Brake fluid. Maybe oven-cleaner.

                  M
                  "... well, that takes care of Jorgenson's theory!"

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                  • #10
                    Originally posted by He Who Shall Not Be Named View Post
                    Brake fluid. Maybe oven-cleaner.

                    M
                    I wouldn't use oven cleaner. Try WD40 as the solvents in it aren't too severe. Stay away from lacquer thinner, acetone, methylene chloride.
                    Stop messing about - just get a Sub-driver!

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                    • #11
                      Whatever you use, try it on a bit of sprue first!!! Do as I say, not as I do!!!

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                      • #12
                        Mineral spirits wont harm the plastic. be careful if you try brake fluid. DOT3 is caustic, DOT5 is synthetic. Denatured alcahol would be another gental cleaner. Theres always Mr Clean as well, Pinesol or Lysol. Generally water soluable cleaners are safe. When in doubt try the product on scrap piece

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                        • #13
                          Prolonged Cobalt bombardment, laser, high-explosives ....

                          M
                          "... well, that takes care of Jorgenson's theory!"

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                          • #14
                            Originally posted by He Who Shall Not Be Named View Post
                            Prolonged Cobalt bombardment, laser, high-explosives ....

                            M
                            Problem with the Prolonged cobalt bombing and the lasers. Mine use the oldscool batteries that short out on the first zap. You know, If it was raining soup, the only thing I will have is a fork.What about low explosives? Would you say Low explosives blow things down rather than up?

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                            • #15
                              Ok, so, some proposed methods have been tried and only thing working so far is finger nail scraping. .. but there's one deck that has a diamond grate pattern that's being stubborn. No chemicals or nails have removed it yet...

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