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Skipjack Build Query

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  • Skipjack Build Query

    I have built model boats before but this will be my first sub, I have just received the Moebius Skipjack kit and have ordered the fittings kit, ballast pack and Easy Sub Driver as at the moment I have only the 2.4 ghz radio.
    My query is using the Easy Sub Driver do I do all the modifications to the Skipjack kit as per Mr Merriman's Skipjac R/C conversion manual as I might want to upgrade later to a ballast system but perhaps not the whole SAS system. I appreciate that I would need to use all the fittings in the kit but not sure about the hull modifications in terms of cut outs etc. Also using the easy sub driver am I correct in the assumption that this would mean that the sub would be a dynamic diver at least to periscope or snort level until the radio signal is lost

  • #2
    Originally posted by Jocurran View Post
    I have built model boats before but this will be my first sub, I have just received the Moebius Skipjack kit and have ordered the fittings kit, ballast pack and Easy Sub Driver as at the moment I have only the 2.4 ghz radio.
    My query is using the Easy Sub Driver do I do all the modifications to the Skipjack kit as per Mr Merriman's Skipjac R/C conversion manual as I might want to upgrade later to a ballast system but perhaps not the whole SAS system. I appreciate that I would need to use all the fittings in the kit but not sure about the hull modifications in terms of cut outs etc. Also using the easy sub driver am I correct in the assumption that this would mean that the sub would be a dynamic diver at least to periscope or snort level until the radio signal is lost
    Yes, assemble the kit with the full fittings kit. Only difference between the SAS and Dynamic versions of the SubDriver is that -- if using the easy SubDriver -- you will employ enough fixed ballast weight to float the boat with half of the sail sticking into the air, and that's as high as the boat will be in the water when not in motion. It will be a dynamic diver only.

    If, later, you want the boat to be fully capable -- a static diver -- you install the SAS type SubDriver. Then alter the amount of fixed ballast weight to get the boat to float at the designed waterline in surface trim. And that's about all the changes you will make.

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ID:	92734 (Shown here is the 2.5" Easy SubDriver, I don't have any shots of the 3.5" version yet) When using the 2.4gHz r/c system you will be compelled to run a length of small gauge coaxial cable between the receiver and antenna mounted up in the sail. I use one of the periscopes as the antenna location -- way up high. Once the antenna dips under the water, all servos fail to their 'zero' positions and the positively buoyant boat slows and floats back up to the surface where the signal is re-acquired and you're back in business.

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ID:	92737 Here's how to run the coax cable (with short 2.4gHz antenna atop) from the SD to the top of the sail. This example being the Moebius SEAVIEW kit.

    M
    "... well, that takes care of Jorgenson's theory!"

    Comment


    • #3
      Thanks for that Dave, do you know if it is possible to get the snort fitting for the SAS system on its own so that when i build the Sail all the internals will be complete for the later addition of the SAS type sub driver

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      • #4
        Originally posted by Jocurran View Post
        Thanks for that Dave, do you know if it is possible to get the snort fitting for the SAS system on its own so that when i build the Sail all the internals will be complete for the later addition of the SAS type sub driver
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ID:	92747 If you follow the SKIPJACK WIP (a dedicated thread published here) you'll see that the snorkel assembly mounts directly atop the hull, under the sail. Make the sail removable when you assemble this kit and you will have no problem retrofitting the assembly when you upgrade to a SAS type SubDriver.

        Glue the sail to the hull and you're screwed!

        M
        "... well, that takes care of Jorgenson's theory!"

        Comment


        • #5
          Thanks for your prompt reply and clarification Dave, I'll pay more attention to the build logs in future!
          One further question if I may, will there be an upgrade kit available to add to the easy driver cylinder or is it a complete new unit? Thanks once again
          Last edited by Jocurran; 12-09-2014, 04:07 AM.

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          • #6
            Originally posted by Jocurran View Post
            Thanks for your prompt reply and clarification Dave, I'll pay more attention to the build logs in future!
            One further question if I may, will there be an upgrade kit available to add to the easy driver cylinder or is it a complete new unit? Thanks once again
            No problem, I love doing this stuff -- as long as the recipient DOES something with these little golden nuggets of knowledge I spew.

            RTFM!

            No upgrade kit to convert the Easy SD to an SAS SD. Two different animals. As illustrated below:



            M
            "... well, that takes care of Jorgenson's theory!"

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            • #7
              Sorry attachments not opening

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              • #8
                Let's try that again:

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                "... well, that takes care of Jorgenson's theory!"

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                • #9
                  Thanks got it now, have decided to stick with the easy driver for this my first effort. Have now ordered the fittings kit, 3.5 easy driver and ballast kit so once they get to me here in West Australia I look forward to making a start on the project.
                  I really am quite amazed at the amount of useful information there is here on this forum.

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Originally posted by Jocurran View Post
                    Thanks got it now, have decided to stick with the easy driver for this my first effort. Have now ordered the fittings kit, 3.5 easy driver and ballast kit so once they get to me here in West Australia I look forward to making a start on the project.
                    I really am quite amazed at the amount of useful information there is here on this forum.
                    Follow the WIP and you will be able to fit both the Easy and SAS type SD's with few transitional hiccups.

                    There is a delay with the SD's and other items as I've been laid up with some knee problems, though I've recently been able to do some work. Hang in there -- it'll eventually get to you.

                    And thank you for the nice words about the site. Mike Caswell is the guy footing the bill for it and running the forum -- I'm only the resident Brainiac here. There are other Master's that visit and contribute as well -- Andy, Manfred to name a few. Log in often and dig into the old threads. There is much to learn here.

                    M
                    "... well, that takes care of Jorgenson's theory!"

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      just a quick question about an earlier thread re the antennae for 2.4g system in one of the photos showing the coax cable at the receiver what is the shield wire connected to on the receiver , sorry I'm not very up with this

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                      • #12
                        Originally posted by Jocurran View Post
                        just a quick question about an earlier thread re the antennae for 2.4g system in one of the photos showing the coax cable at the receiver what is the shield wire connected to on the receiver , sorry I'm not very up with this
                        Me neither, pal. But, I'm learning.

                        You want to keep the shield-to-negative(ground) run as short as possible (thank you, Andy and Kevin!). Trace the foil on your receiver and find the closest negative point to the antenna pad you can find and make up the shield to that.

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ID:	93085 I did it the dumb-ass way on Mike's SEAVIEW (hey! ... it ain't my boat, who cares!). Note the long lead from coax cable shield to receiver ground. Bad hockey! Should have kept that leg short by finding a pad closer to the antenna pad. But, damned thing still works, but likely the range is shorter than it could be -- a big deal to flyers, not so big a deal to we submarine drivers.

                        M
                        "... well, that takes care of Jorgenson's theory!"

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          Originally posted by He Who Shall Not Be Named View Post
                          I did it the dumb-ass way on Mike's SEAVIEW (hey! ... it ain't my boat, who cares!).

                          M
                          Hey! Another prototype eh? I'm not complaining, even though it took months to get you to throw the thing in a box. Now hurry up and finish the other two you're doing.
                          Stop messing about - just get a Sub-driver!

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                          • #14
                            Originally posted by Kazzer View Post
                            Hey! Another prototype eh? I'm not complaining, even though it took months to get you to throw the thing in a box. Now hurry up and finish the other two you're doing.
                            I'm on it, Boss. Slow turtle wins the race and all that crap....

                            M
                            "... well, that takes care of Jorgenson's theory!"

                            Comment

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