Announcement

Collapse

Forum rules and expectations

Hello, and welcome to the forums at the Nautilus Drydocks, formerly Sub-driver.com!

We welcome anyone with a passion for submarines and a desire to learn and share knowledge about this fascinating hobby. Use of these forums indicates your intention to abide by our code of conduct:


1. No spam. All automated messages, advertisements, and links to competitor websites will be deleted immediately.

2. Please post in relevant sub-forums only. Messages posted in the wrong topic area will be removed and placed in the correct sub-forum by moderators.

3. Respect other users. No flaming or abusing fellow forum members. Users who continue to post inflammatory, abusive comments will be deleted from the forum after or without a warning.

4. No threats or harassment of other users will be tolerated. Any instance of threatening or harassing behavior is grounds for deletion from the forums.

5. No profanity or pornography is allowed. Posts containing adult material will be deleted.

6. No re-posting of copyrighted materials or other illegal content is allowed. Any posts containing illegal content or copyrighted materials will be deleted.
See more
See less

ES2 Electronic switch

Collapse
X
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • ES2 Electronic switch

    Is there a way to test this switch other than in an assembly, like using a electrical tester? Mine appears to be malfunctioning. Been in service for 2 years. The pump and solenoid valve are good but not responding to command. Is the ES1 being sold on Nautilus Dry Docks the same as the ES2 I bought from Caswell? The description appears to be the same. Appreciate any help. Thanks.

  • #2
    Hi there,

    Unfortunately I don't have a straight answer for you as I have no association with the ES1 or ES2 products. I'm still willing to try to try to figure out what's gone wrong, but because they're not mine I have no more specific insight into how they work than "the next guy".

    I think the ES1/ES2 operate as un-isolated high-side switches, so you should be able to measure continuity between the Rx black wire, ES1 battery input -and power output - (to solenoid/pump). This also means that an electrical tester set to "diode test" should show you a "diode drop" voltage when measuring from ES1 battery input + to power output + when measured with the black/red leads one way, and wide open when measured with the black/red the other way. Note that these are just basic continuity checks of the power side of the circuit, if it's the controller that's gone "tango uniform" this won't tell you anything.

    KMc
    Kevin McLeod - Oscar II driver
    KMc Designs

    Comment


    • #3
      ES1 and ES2 are two different critters. ES1 controls one function, such as a pump. ES2 allows control of two via the same channel (IE: a pump and a solenoid), very much like the old SES-3 electronic switches from SubTech.

      Comment


      • #4
        Thank you. Bob clarified it also. it turned out my two ES2 are still working. so now i have 3 spare ES2. i guess i panicked and was not thinking it out to sort issues. but i never found out why for some time the two old ES2 stopped working.

        Comment

        Working...
        X