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My WFly wft-08 has died - HELP

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  • My WFly wft-08 has died - HELP

    So here is the scenario, I had just had the sub out 2 days ago. I adjusted it and prepared it for sailing. Went to turn on the WFLY and nothing...blank screen. I thought no big deal, must be the batteries. I put them on the charger (could only do 4 at a time) and when both sets were done, put them in the transmitter. Still nothing! Pulled out the meter and the pack was charged. I got this in January.....HELP!
    What kind of warranty comes with the WFly?
    Suggestions for fixing this?
    Kevin has graciously offered to open his TX to see if there is a fuse. If there is no warranty, then heck I will open the back up, but if there is a warranty what is the next step?
    If you can cut, drill, saw, hit things and swear a lot, you're well on the way to building a working model sub.

  • #2
    If it is a fuse that's gone, do ask the question- what made the fuse blow?
    DIVE IN! Go on, go on, go on, go on, GO ON! http://www.diveintomodelsubmarines.co.uk

    Comment


    • #3
      That is a great question! I had not gone there because I do not know that is actually the cause, it was a grasp for a fix, and being so close to completing this sub and all. More than likely it is a component failure. I have found with computers the first 6 months is the real break-in period, it seems most problems show up then (and then several years later as they wear out). We will see what WFly has to say.
      If you can cut, drill, saw, hit things and swear a lot, you're well on the way to building a working model sub.

      Comment


      • #4
        Heat is the enemy of electronics, especially computers, keep 'em cool and they last a long time.
        DIVE IN! Go on, go on, go on, go on, GO ON! http://www.diveintomodelsubmarines.co.uk

        Comment


        • #5
          Heat! Yes it is a killer for computers and now that you mention it, when I ran the sub in the inflatable pool, the removable box in the back of the transmitter with the frequency on it seemed mighty warm to me (that may be normal), but I did not remember that until you mentioned it.
          If you can cut, drill, saw, hit things and swear a lot, you're well on the way to building a working model sub.

          Comment


          • #6
            The transistor for the tuner will emitt quite a bit of heat, so it's probably that. The transistor in my Futaba FC16 runs pretty hot.
            DIVE IN! Go on, go on, go on, go on, GO ON! http://www.diveintomodelsubmarines.co.uk

            Comment


            • #7
              I notice the hot-spot on my RF boards too. Is that the last stage-modulating amplifier, just before the antenna?

              David
              "... well, that takes care of Jorgenson's theory!"

              Comment


              • #8
                Are you asking me? ah sure just past the flux capacitor and the turbo encabulator.
                If you can cut, drill, saw, hit things and swear a lot, you're well on the way to building a working model sub.

                Comment


                • #9
                  O.K. Kevin said there is a fuse......
                  So first thing, is there a warranty with this? If so how long?

                  Will WFly allow me to open the back and check that out? (which as subculture said then the question is "What made it blow?" if that indeed is the issue)

                  If it is not the fuse what options do I have? and "Anchor" is NOT an option. :-)
                  Last edited by trout; 04-13-2012, 12:04 AM.
                  If you can cut, drill, saw, hit things and swear a lot, you're well on the way to building a working model sub.

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Originally posted by trout View Post
                    O.K. Kevin said there is a fuse......
                    So first thing, is there a warranty with this? If so how long?

                    Will WFly allow me to open the back and check that out? (which as subculture said then the question is "What made it blow?" if that indeed is the issue)

                    If it is not the fuse what options do I have? and "Anchor" is NOT an option. :-)
                    Hello, this is Joanna from WFLY. It is hard to say what excatly the matter is for the TX according to your description.

                    Sure the TX has a fuse, and the given voltage is 9.6-11v. There are two reasons which will make the screen blank. One is the voltage, if the voltage is lower than 8v, then you can't power on the tx. While if the transient current is higher than 12v, then the tx will be burnt off. Another reason is because the tx has been damaged such as the IC.

                    Have you measured the battery pack's voltage? When you dial the trim, can you hear the BUZZER sound?

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Joanna,
                      yes, it was ~10.4v
                      i do not hear anything..... What if I plugged an external power, would that help diagnos the issue? If so, what type of transformer should I get? If that would not help, then what is my next step?
                      Thank you for your help!
                      tom
                      If you can cut, drill, saw, hit things and swear a lot, you're well on the way to building a working model sub.

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        I would expect these radios to have a 12 month guarantee against defects and bad workmanship. Personally I wouldn't start tinkering with a radio that's just three months old.
                        DIVE IN! Go on, go on, go on, go on, GO ON! http://www.diveintomodelsubmarines.co.uk

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          Originally posted by WFLY Technician View Post
                          Hello, this is Joanna from WFLY. It is hard to say what excatly the matter is for the TX according to your description.

                          Sure the TX has a fuse, and the given voltage is 9.6-11v. There are two reasons which will make the screen blank. One is the voltage, if the voltage is lower than 8v, then you can't power on the tx. While if the transient current is higher than 12v, then the tx will be burnt off. Another reason is because the tx has been damaged such as the IC.

                          Have you measured the battery pack's voltage? When you dial the trim, can you hear the BUZZER sound?
                          I just tried again this morning and (do not know why, hoped for a different outcome [insanity, I know]) no change. I rechecked the voltage it was 10.8v and still nothing comes on or makes any beeping noise. What is the next step????
                          I would really like to resolve this......or ask about getting it replaced.
                          Peace,
                          Tom
                          If you can cut, drill, saw, hit things and swear a lot, you're well on the way to building a working model sub.

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            I received this from Joanna:
                            Hello Tom,

                            Would you pls advise where you locate now?

                            If you open the panel, can you check the matter by yourself pls?

                            Best Regards

                            and I responded:

                            I live in Las Vegas, Nevada USA
                            So, you are giving me permission to open the back and check it out? This will not void my warranty?

                            Peace,
                            Tom


                            and I also responded:

                            So, are you giving me the o.k. to open it? I can do some basic testing.
                            Please advise! I guess I want to see what we can do to speed this up.
                            Peace,
                            Tom
                            If you can cut, drill, saw, hit things and swear a lot, you're well on the way to building a working model sub.

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              I got the O.K. to open up the TX.
                              Once opened up there were no immediate visible signs of a blown component. With computers, when a motherboard component goes bad, there are signs like a whitish powder or scorch mark from the failed piece. I did not see that nor did I smell the rancid smell.
                              Click image for larger version

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                              Followed the power from the battery compartment down. Cable was fine. Then at the lower left corner, I found the fuse. It was small so I grabbed a magnifying lens (Jewelers loupe) and looked at the fuse.
                              Click image for larger version

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                              Please forgive the blurry picture, it was hard to hold the TX and loupe and focus in the light I have. You may be able to see it but 1/3 or so from the left side of the filament is a break. THE FUSE DID BLOW!!!!!! Why, not sure. I need to get a replacement fuse and see if there is any other damage or if the fuse will go again, at which point we have a bigger problem.

                              What are the specs on this fuse and I will order some. Since I am doing my own warranty diagnostics and repair, what is the going rate? I should not have to do this, but I am anxious to get my sub sea qualified and heck look at all the things I am learning! :-)
                              If you can cut, drill, saw, hit things and swear a lot, you're well on the way to building a working model sub.

                              Comment

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