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Rusting Effects with Modern Masters Iron Paint-new formulation?

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  • #16
    This is the reasoning behind VHS solution:

    Heavy rust on the links of a chain near the Golden Gate Bridge in San Francisco; it was continuously exposed to moisture and salt spray, causing surface breakdown, cracking, and flaking of the metal.

    Outdoor Rust Wedge display at the Exploratorium shows the enormous expansive force of rusting iron

    Rust is another name for iron oxide,[3] which occurs when iron or an alloy that contains iron, like steel, is exposed to oxygen and moisture for a long period of time. Over time, the oxygen combines with the metal at an atomic level, forming a new compound called an oxide and weakening the bonds of the metal itself. Although some people refer to rust generally as "oxidation", that term is much more general; although rust forms when iron undergoes oxidation, not all oxidation forms rust. Only iron or alloys that contain iron can rust, but other metals can corrode in similar ways.

    The main catalyst for the rusting process is water. Iron or steel structures might appear to be solid, but water molecules can penetrate the microscopic pits and cracks in any exposed metal. The hydrogen atoms present in water molecules can combine with other elements to form acids, which will eventually cause more metal to be exposed. If chloride ions are present, as is the case with saltwater, the corrosion is likely to occur more quickly. Meanwhile, the oxygen atoms combine with metallic atoms to form the destructive oxide compound. As the atoms combine, they weaken the metal, making the structure brittle and crumbly. Oxidation of iron

    When impure (cast) iron is in contact with water, oxygen, other strong oxidants, or acids, it rusts. If salt is present, for example in seawater or salt spray, the iron tends to rust more quickly, as a result of electrochemical reactions. Iron metal is relatively unaffected by pure water or by dry oxygen. As with other metals, like aluminium, a tightly adhering oxide coating, a passivation layer, protects the bulk iron from further oxidation. The conversion of the passivating ferrous oxide layer to rust results from the combined action of two agents, usually oxygen and water.

    Other degrading solutions are sulfur dioxide in water and carbon dioxide in water. Under these corrosive conditions, iron hydroxide species are formed. Unlike ferrous oxides, the hydroxides do not adhere to the bulk metal. As they form and flake off from the surface, fresh iron is exposed, and the corrosion process continues until either all of the iron is consumed or all of the oxygen, water, carbon dioxide, or sulfur dioxide in the system are removed or consumed.[4]

    When iron rusts, the oxides take up more volume than the original metal; this expansion can generate enormous forces, damaging structures made with iron. See economic effect for more details. Associated reactions

    The rusting of iron is an electrochemical process that begins with the transfer of electrons from iron to oxygen.[5] The iron is the reducing agent (gives up electrons) while the oxygen is the oxidising agent (gains electrons). The rate of corrosion is affected by water and accelerated by electrolytes, as illustrated by the effects of road salt on the corrosion of automobiles. The key reaction is the reduction of oxygen: O2 + 4  e + 2  H2O → 4  OH
    Because it forms hydroxide ions, this process is strongly affected by the presence of acid. Indeed, the corrosion of most metals by oxygen is accelerated at low pH. Providing the electrons for the above reaction is the oxidation of iron that may be described as follows: Fe → Fe2+ + 2  e
    The following redox reaction also occurs in the presence of water and is crucial to the formation of rust: 4 Fe2+ + O2 → 4 Fe3+ + 2 O2−
    In addition, the following multistep acid–base reactions affect the course of rust formation: Fe2+ + 2  H2O ⇌ Fe(OH)2 + 2  H+ Fe3+ + 3  H2O ⇌ Fe(OH)3 + 3  H+
    as do the following dehydration equilibria: Fe(OH)2 ⇌ FeO +  H2O Fe(OH)3 ⇌ FeO(OH) +  H2O 2 FeO(OH) ⇌ Fe2O3 +  H2O
    From the above equations, it is also seen that the corrosion products are dictated by the availability of water and oxygen. With limited dissolved oxygen, iron(II)-containing materials are favoured, including FeO and black lodestone or magnetite (Fe3O4). High oxygen concentrations favour ferric materials with the nominal formulae Fe(OH)3−xOx2. The nature of rust changes with time, reflecting the slow rates of the reactions of solids.

    Furthermore, these complex processes are affected by the presence of other ions, such as Ca2+, which serve as electrolytes which accelerate rust formation, or combine with the hydroxides and oxides of iron to precipitate a variety of Ca, Fe, O, OH species.

    Onset of rusting can also be detected in laboratory with the use of ferroxyl indicator solution. The solution detects both Fe2+ ions and hydroxyl ions. Formation of Fe2+ ions and hydroxyl ions are indicated by blue and pink patches respectively.

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    • #17
      My wife calls me a geek. I guess I am. Ha Ha

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      • #18
        Here is the first shot after it dried. This is about 15 hours later. The Oxidation on 2 was premature. I added some VHS prior to this picture.

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        • #19
          Here is a shot right after I added VHS to each except 1. You can see the oxidation process start right off with the foaming.

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          • #20
            Here are some closer shots.
            Last edited by Michael Laubach; 04-29-2018, 08:33 AM.

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            • #21
              It seems okay so far. The real opinions should come from Bob and David whom have worked with the older formulation extensively.

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              • #22
                I have now done another experiment to get the rust powder. This process MUST be done OUTSIDE! IT MUST BE in a WELL ventilated area! I am using fine steel wool. A Mixture of Bleach (Sodium Hypochlorite) and Distilled White Vinegar (2 parts bleach to one part vinegar) I have added this to an open glass mason Jar. This is an exothermic reaction, meaning that it will give off heat. When you do this, make sure that it is not cold outside, or the temp differential will break the glass! The steel wool should fully oxidize,leaving the rust at the bottom. After the reaction is complete, I will pour off the liquid,filter the powder, and rinse it with water,Let it dry, and reduce particle size of the powder with a pestle in a mortar.
                Last edited by Michael Laubach; 04-29-2018, 10:31 AM.

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                • #23
                  I am wearing a respirator while doing this,because the fumes are very dangerous! This is ~30 minutes into reaction.

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                  • #24
                    Here I have filtered the rust. It now has to dry.

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                    • #25
                      I think I might be onto something here. I washed the rust sludge with a sodium bicarbonate solution (water and baking soda) as David mentioned. I was being a bit impatient and brought some of the paste into the house. I had some more extra garbage plastic that I was not going to use, so it became a "Victim". I have added some descriptions to the photos. Let me know what you think. Granted, this is an early experiment. I want to get the process down before using it on the real thing. I want all opinions please. 2.) Here I have sprayed the flat chestnut metallic paint. I let it dry. I then mixed a bit of flat black and gunship gray from model masters and painted a line on top. (This would simulate the spayed rivet lines). I then applied the rust paste and let it dry a bit and wiped off. Yes I touched it earlier with my darn finger to see if it was dry. My bad. 3.) Here is the Dark Steel rustoleum paint with some of the rust paste applied. 1.) Here is rustoleum flat chestnut which is a metallic paint. I applied some of the rust past and let it dry a bit and wiped off. It still does have metal effects to it which this photograph does not totally pick up.
                      Last edited by Michael Laubach; 04-30-2018, 02:18 PM.

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                      • #26
                        Here I was holding an LED light to show some of the metal effects. I have to go get a satin or semigloss spray to lightly dust the tea subjects.

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                        • #27
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                          Here I have applied different finishes They are a dusting. The first one is called frosted pearl a rustoleum product. To me, It looks too wet. It does add some metal effects. The second one is rustoleum gloss. The third is rustoleum satin.

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                          • #28
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                            Here you can see the sheen from a side view.

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                            • #29
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                              Here I have taken a closer shot with LED Light to show the metal effects.
                              Attached Files

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                              • #30
                                I think that I might be pretty close based on these exterior shots. I really would appreciate everyone's thoughts.
                                Ty Bumgardner's Pictorial Guide to the Nautilus
                                Last edited by Michael Laubach; 04-30-2018, 05:50 PM.

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