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arkmodel torpedoes

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  • arkmodel torpedoes

    hi Guys
    I have two of the arkmodel torpedoes. thers a little bigger than the kit parts and will not go in the tube on the 23 unless you remove the ridges on them. size wise there the same as kit. so I will be doing a kit bash. instructions are the norm??????????? so I will ask for better info. as for batteries that would fit in the kit torpedo head I am thinking heli batteries. smaller but should work fine. any Ideas Dave? I will use these in my UCII and UB88. will be so cool.
    Attached Files

  • #2
    Rotsa Ruck, Round-eye!

    M
    "... well, that takes care of Jorgenson's theory!"

    Comment


    • #3
      It will be interesting to see how these will run once assembled. The build looks simple, but I do not like the fact that once you seal the main body, that is it. Using silicon might allow opening to drain water that gets in or you can create a drain hole that is sealed with a screw. What are they using to seal the prop shaft? It is really a simple design using a n.c. (normally closed) reed switch. Your magnet when near will open the switch. Once the magnet is removed, the torpedo will run, but that is also a issue. It will run until you can stop it or the LiPo runs out, no timer. A 555 timer circuit could shut it down......hmmmm.
      If you can cut, drill, saw, hit things and swear a lot, you're well on the way to building a working model sub.

      Comment


      • #4
        yup you run a lipo dry it cooked!! where can I get this timer how big?? damn always got buy something else:)) will be cool tho. Craig

        Comment


        • #5
          now for the kikcker. I asked for a wire diagram. you know red here, black there. got these pictures. can someone draw it out for us?? Please.
          Attached Files

          Comment


          • #6
            The solenoid kicks the torpedo up and outboard from the retaining magnets set on the torpedo cradle.

            Swap the battery for an electrolytic capacitor and you control run time and don't fry a battery each run (Dan Kachur gets credit for the capacitor thing).

            M
            "... well, that takes care of Jorgenson's theory!"

            Comment


            • #7
              David, I have not found Dan Kacher's information on this, do you have a contact? or an article?

              I do not know a lot about electronic circuits (just enough to be dangerous). 555 Timer Circuit is a simple circuit like this one http://clarkson-uk.com/555-timer/operation/frames4.html except you would need it where it is normally low then when the reed switch makes contact, it will go high and run only once for the time it is designed to go. This is a question for Kevin McLeod. Kevin, Help!
              If you can cut, drill, saw, hit things and swear a lot, you're well on the way to building a working model sub.

              Comment


              • #8
                What scale are these?

                Comment


                • #9
                  Originally posted by trout View Post
                  555 Timer Circuit is a simple circuit like this one http://clarkson-uk.com/555-timer/operation/frames4.html except you would need it where it is normally low then when the reed switch makes contact, it will go high and run only once for the time it is designed to go. This is a question for Kevin McLeod. Kevin, Help!
                  Hi Tom!

                  The circuit described there is what's known as a "mono-stable multivibrator". It's output will normally stay in one state. You can kick it to the other state, but it will only stay there for a short amount of time then drop back to the original state. This is one way to get what you want, but knowing your application the parts are rather large. If it were left to me I'd use a tiny PIC, a hall-effect sensor (to replace the reed switch) and a FET to control power to the motor, and you could programme the PIC for what ever time delay you want.

                  I'm curious about Dan's idea of using a large electrolytic cap as I've never found caps to be a good way of storing energy on the scale necessary for driving a motor. David, have you ever tried this solution or seen it working? How long of a run time can be achieved, and how quickly does the "stored charge" decay from the initial applied voltage?
                  Kevin McLeod - Oscar II driver
                  KMc Designs

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Originally posted by KevinMc View Post
                    Hi Tom!

                    The circuit described there is what's known as a "mono-stable multivibrator". It's output will normally stay in one state. You can kick it to the other state, but it will only stay there for a short amount of time then drop back to the original state. This is one way to get what you want, but knowing your application the parts are rather large. If it were left to me I'd use a tiny PIC, a hall-effect sensor (to replace the reed switch) and a FET to control power to the motor, and you could programme the PIC for what ever time delay you want.

                    I'm curious about Dan's idea of using a large electrolytic cap as I've never found caps to be a good way of storing energy on the scale necessary for driving a motor. David, have you ever tried this solution or seen it working? How long of a run time can be achieved, and how quickly does the "stored charge" decay from the initial applied voltage?
                    I've seen the video of Dan's torpedo, The charge is quickly used up, I think his weapon was 1/48 or 1/35 scale -- in that size range. Run time is about 5-10 seconds, enough for a reasonable run, short enough not to loose the weapon. Dirt simple. Can't find the video now. I think he did an article years back that appeared in the SCR.

                    David
                    "... well, that takes care of Jorgenson's theory!"

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Could you use a pushbutton car door opener to control the torpedo?
                      Depends on size of reciever....
                      First button starts/stops motor.
                      Second button turns rudder.
                      Third button explodes/honks loudley.

                      Scott T

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